Search results for

Beyond the Olympics in London’s East End

Chris Walker and Morgan Hartley spent three months cycling through central Asia as part of an 18-month bike trip. Here is part one of five of their account, in which their trip is almost thwarted from the start.

It’s often a surprise for visitors to Berlin to discover that Turkish postwar immigrants created the popular döner kebab here. The city takes its kebabs seriously, and there are several hot spots whose reputation precedes them. One such is Mustafa’s in West Berlin, which has reached a kind of cult status as much for its vegetable (gemüse) kebabs as for its chicken ones. Every day around lunchtime the modest stall has lines that stretch along the road, as people wait patiently for a crispy pita filled with the special mix of vegetables, salad, and homemade sauces, topped off with crumbled goat cheese. Get here outside peak mealtimes if you want to avoid the crowds.

It’s easy to feel like one of the Mughal royals whose kitchens inspired the menus at this fine-dining restaurant, thanks to the impeccable service, serene garden views, and elegant decor of rich woods and plush fabrics. The food would do the palace cooks proud, too, with an extensive à la carte menu full of delights like perfectly marinated, charcoal-grilled kebabs (a mixed platter is available so you can try each of the tempting choices), Bengal prawn curry, stuffed banana chilis, Mughul-style fish curry, and quail simmered in sealed pots that are heated underground. For a signature experience, try one of the traditional Indian thalis—a three-course meal accompanied by tandoor-baked breads, homemade pickles, rice pilaf, and more sides—or one of the six-course tasting menus, which feature dishes that meld Indian and Western flavors; think lamb with quinoa, “24-carat gold” chicken, and apple fritters in saffron sauce.

This bar in Gros is one, as the locals say, ‘de toda la vida’. A lifelong place to stop and enjoy one of their spectacular anchovy and tuna pintxos (I recommend the one that looks like a mountain of mayonnaise) or a pintxo moruno, a hanging kebab that is a house specialty. The pintxos are classic and delicious. Always a great ambience.

Global celebrities like Bill and Hillary Clinton and Bruce Springsteen have all been spotted at Bukhara. Ranked as one of New Delhi’s top (and priciest) restaurants since 1977, the legendary spot—now located at the ITC Maurya hotel—celebrates India’s rugged North West Frontier region in both its décor and menu. Though the faux-rustic design seems a bit like that of a theme restaurant (think cracked stone walls, low seating, lots of wood beams and clay pots), the cuisine is legit. So legit, in fact, that there’s no cutlery, so guests eat with their hands. (You are issued an apron for protection.) The dishes of the Frontier region tend towards the warm, hearty, and comforting, crafted using tandoor clay ovens and wood fires, so expect staples like marinated kebabs, rich lentils, fluffy bread, and lots of meat; the signature Sikandri Raan mutton leg, burrah (lamb) kebabs, and off-the-menu Chicken Khurchan are particular favorites, along with overflowing shareable platters. Reservations are recommended as the place does gets packed.

On arrival to Istanbul, many tourists order the chicken şiş (chicken kebab) for a meal because it’s familiar and safe, but they’re really missing out on some of the best food in the world! I encourage anyone visiting Turkey to gastro-travel through the country’s tasty cuisine and sample the many Ottoman dishes and succulent regional kebabs on offer. My favorite place to take guests is Fuego Cafe & Restaurant in Sultanahmet. Fuego opened in early 2012 and is fast becoming one of the most reputable restaurants in the tourism precinct. The outstanding service by owner-operators Can, Ali, Mehmet and Salih has earned the restaurant accolades. Try the Ali Nazik (minced beef on yogurt, eggplant and tomato mash), Hünkar Beğendi (tender lamb on a bed of smoked eggplant puree) or pilic dolma (stuffed chicken with a rich saffron sauce) and wash it down with a glass of Turkish wine from the comprehensive wine list. The restaurant is also open late, so pop in for a nightcap or two on your way back to your hotel. If you’re a coffee drinker, ask Can, a former barista, to brew you a cappuccino, latte, espresso, French coffee, Irish coffee, or even a herbal tea. Fuego welcomes guests for breakfast, lunch, and dinner all through the year and can accommodate people with food intolerances—just ask your waiter for recommendations.

Take a break from shopping along Istiklal Street at Hala, which specializes in authentic home-cooked Anatolian cuisine. You know you’ve found it when you see women with white headscarfs kneading dough in the front window. They’re preparing and cooking Turkish savory pancakes called gözleme. Hala is a great place to try gözleme along with other traditional staples like Ali Nazik kebabs and manti (meat dumplings served with yogurt and oil, caramelized with tomato paste, and seasoned with mint and red pepper). Wash it all down with a glass of Ayran, a salty yogurt drink adored by many Turks.

Each evening as the sun sets, Stone Town’s Forodhani Gardens park transforms into an open-air food market. Skip the fish kebabs and head straight to the vendors selling urojo, a thick mango-and-tamarind soup served alongside chickpea fritters, boiled potatoes, cassava flakes, chutney, and as much hot sauce as you dare. Follow it up with hand-pressed sugarcane juice with ginger and lime.

Every Saturday from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m., the island’s largest open-air market sprawls across the University of Hawai‘i Maui College campus, creating a lively scene with more than 200 vendors. Many of Maui’s best boutiques sell their wares here, but for much cheaper prices than at their brick-and-mortar locations. Browse for muumuus, wood carvings, and other handmade crafts like bone and shell jewelry, or treat yourself to a shave ice while perusing piles of leis, local fruit, and homemade baked goods. The market is especially strong when it comes to street food—don’t miss the spam kebabs, banana bread, and goji kombucha.

While living in Berlin, I stayed on Warschauer Strasse, on the end closest to the U-Bahn station of the same name. On an evening walk before dinner, I took a walk down the street to explore my new surroundings. This particular set of doors is the epitome of the neighborhood, to me.

Open that teal door down an alleyway in D.C.’s bustling 14th and U Street neighborhood and like in Alice In Wonderland, you’ll be transported to another world. Just inside the door, Maydan’s cooks fan and stoke the flames of a firepit. Lamb shoulders smoke overhead, pita bread bakes in clay ovens, and vegetables char over coals. The flavorful shared-plates menu of spreads, kebabs, vegetables, and more is inspired by homemade meals shared throughout the Middle East, North Africa, and Caucasus. Maydan, which means “gathering place” in Arabic dialects, succeeds at creating a communal dining experience where food and conversation is exchanged across the table. Grab a reservation in advance (available open 28 days ahead at midnight) and request a seat downstairs for a front-row view of the mesmerizing open-fire cooking spectacle.

The large, leafy patio of this mezze restaurant in bohemian Exarchia was once the local schoolyard. Now cozy couples and animated gaggles of friends gather beneath the flowering bowers to enjoy some of the most honest and comforting food in town. Order as many dishes as you can fit on the table and share them all. Rather than traditional Greek fare, the menu is a tasty Mediterranean pick-and-mix. Try the cracked wheat salad with green apple, mint, and dried figs; meatballs seasoned with cinnamon and clove; and mini lamb kebabs. The high-ceilinged, well-lit classrooms make charming dining rooms in cooler weather. Service is unfailingly friendly and relaxed.

A school-turned-mezedopoleío serves delicious meze including bakalyaro (walnut-crusted fish fillets) and pita topped with yogurt and smoked eggplant. Bonus: a patio surrounded by bougainvillea.

A one-man operation, this place is a fantastic option for anyone looking for a quality burger at a more than reasonable price. The shop itself is small and can easily be mistaken for your usual takeaway or kebab shop, but it isn’t. The owner, who regulars call “Joe” is welcoming, friendly, and truly cares about his food and your visit. The food is good across the board, but he specializes in burgers. They’re all good - beef, chicken, and even salmon - but his special “Banana Joe Burger” with an egg on top is the icing on the cake. Don’t be afraid to try the salmon burger. While Copenhagen is fairly bad about over-cooking their salmon in general, Joe always hits it just right and uses real slices of fresh salmon for the burger. It is delicious...and I say that as someone who doesn’t normally like salmon. Stay in, or take away, but be forewarned there are only 4 seats inside, and a handful of tables outside during summer months.

Food, fun, and entrepreneurship come together at this 15-acre hub at the base of west Dallas’ Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge. The complex was designed as an incubator to nurture and support startups in the worlds of dining, art, entertainment, and retail, allowing emerging businesses to connect with each other and the community. As a result, tenants may come and go, but you’re always sure to find a diverse selection of wares and eats; recent restaurants, for example, have spotlit sushi, kebabs, “next gen” Mexican, and vegan dishes, while shops have peddled handmade chocolates, Korean snow cones, Southern-style cakes, and works by emerging painters. Most of the spots have indoor seating, but it’s more fun to grab some favorites and sit out on the patio, looking out on the city skyline. Be sure to check the site for info on upcoming events like live music, trivia nights at the brewery, “pizza on the patio” evenings and more.