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Tucked among the pristine rain forests of Kauai’s remote North Shore, Princeville Resort’s lush 9,000 acres feel like they’re straight out of South Pacific. In fact, the classic musical used neighboring Mount Makana as a stand-in for Bali Hai. The peak’s verdant slopes are visible from many of the property’s 251 rooms, which are clad in ocean- and floral-inspired hues and outfitted with custom wood furnishings and marble baths, but the real draws lie elsewhere on the property: in the private snorkeling beach and massive infinity pool overlooking the cerulean waters of Hanalei Bay, an 11,000-square-foot spa that specializes in traditional Hawaiian clay treatments, and a world-class golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr.

Surfers have long favored the legendary breaks at Poipu Beach, on Kauai’s south coast, but honeymooners and romance seekers have staked a claim at the beachfront Ko’a Kea Hotel & Resort, a boutique-style getaway in a revamped 1960s lodging that offers a peaceful alternative to the island’s big-name hotel chains. Arranged around an umbrella-dotted pool area, the intimate 121 rooms have private balconies and lanais and island-appropriate decor (think shell-themed artwork and carpeting and coral-embellished drapery framing the sliding doors). Order in to sample sushi prepared with the day’s fresh catch, or head down to Red Salt, helmed by Kauai native Noelani Planas, whose savory vanilla-bean mahi-mahi and lemon-pineapple soufflé pancakes earn rave reviews.

Swift streams and waterfalls continue to carve these vertiginous and rugged valleys as they pour into the sea. One of the most stunning wilderness areas on earth, it also contains ancient Hawaiian ruins of graves, temples, house platforms, and terraced fields. The fear factor increases past the initial two-mile path to Hanakāpīʻai Beach (best visited in summertime, as winter swells tend to wash it away). Only experienced hikers in good condition and with proper gear should venture further along the famous 11-mile Kalalau Trail. Check for path and park closures before making plans and don’t forget the $20/night permit to crash at a campsite. However long you trek, stay on the main path and pack out what you brought in.

Often described as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, this 10-mile-long Kauai valley is a kaleidoscopic array of scarlet earth, verdant valleys, and raw volcanic crags. Bands of color streak the corrugated landscape, each representing a different eruption and layer of lava. Waimea Canyon Drive has a series of lookouts; among the most popular is Waimea Canyon (past the Mile 10 marker on Highway 550), where a number of rivers once cascaded down the gently sloping shield volcano. When part of its flank collapsed, the rivers combined with dramatic results. Continue into the mountains to explore Koke’e State Park beyond. Its small, free museum contains a 3-D map, which sheds light on the canyon’s wild beauty, while the gift shop specializes in local art, crafts, and Niihau shell jewelry.

I rarely get fooled when I follow the local lead and the Koloa Fish Market has my attention. It’s easy to start talking about this little fish palace across the street from the post office. Nondescript is telling it like it is. Observing the stream of locals flowing thru the doors on any given day pegs this place as perfect. This is a fresh fish paradise. Poke prepared in the traditional and innovative styles is the big draw for me. Their wasabi dipping sauce is a great complement to the delightful seasonings. If you need to avoid the raw bar options, you can always hook something to take home to cook. In one of the thousands of hotel rooms without cooking facility? Try the seared ahi with the special teriyaki sauce for a tender treat that easily fulfills lunch or dinner. For those who crave things that walk, they have wonderful treatments on their chicken and pork. Kim chee influences spice things up. The Koloa Fish Market is easy to find and hard to forget. It’s cash only so put your plastic away. No seating onsite, but no shortage of picnic spots on Kauai. It’s just another reminder of a simpler, sustainable Kauai existence. Great testament to the Aloha spirit of the islands.

“Puff the Magic Dragon, lived by the sea, and frolicked in the autumn mist in a land called Honah Lee” our guide kept on singing this verse as he was pointing out the smokey dragon in front of us, as we visited this wonderful place (viewed from the Hanalei Pier). But in reality, there is no direct link to the song, but somehow people have believed that it did :-) Hanalei is a beautiful little town by the coastline and it’s accessible via several one-way bridges from Princeville. It’s a cozy little town to visit when you’re in the island of Kauai. And to add some movie trivia to it, Hanalei Bay is also a popular movie location for South Pacific, Lilo and Stitch and the Descendants. A good spot to stop is Hanalei Pier and Hanalei Beach and it would be lovely place to watch the sunset. Unfortunately, the day we visited, it was raining :-(

Every evening on the North Shore of Kauai, diners pack Bar Acuda for Mediterranean-inspired tapas that highlight local products. “The key is taking the finest ingredients and not doing much with them,” says chef Jim Moffat. He frequently changes his seasonal menu and sources such produce as citrus, avocados, fennel, and herbs from his home garden and the Hanalei Elementary School Garden, a program for local students that he helps run. Moffat often shops at farmers’ markets, but locals know they can also sell their fruits and vegetables at Bar Acuda’s back door. One firefighter even drives his 30-foot ladder truck to drop off cases of tangelos. “If you have a vacation rental and there’s something ripe, bring it to me,” says Moffat, who promises a gift certificate in exchange. His food philosophy creates a dining experience that’s greater than the sum of its dishes. “It’s about the lifestyle more than anything.” This appeared in the May 2015 issue.

Boasting some of the best views in Kauai, this dreamy eatery serves up spectacular sunsets alongside splurgeworthy lunches and dinners. Start with the signature Monkeypod Mai Tai: A potent blend of Old Lahaina rums and orange curaçao, graced by honey foam. Then try the Thai-inspired coconut crab cakes, followed by the oven-roasted Jidori chicken with goat-cheese polenta or the wasabi-crusted fish with passion-fruit beurre blanc. Vegetarians won’t go hungry either, thanks to dishes like coconut corn chowder sweetened with local lemongrass and slow-roasted beets with tomato-cilantro salad and tempura asparagus. Often voted the island’s top restaurant by Honolulu Magazine, Beach House has also won a steady streak of awards from Wine Spectator.

Eons of running water are responsible for Hawaii’s escarpments and canyons. After a rainfall, innocuous streams, pools, and waterfalls can swell to impressive sizes. For an easy hike, walk along the Maunawili Falls trail on Oahu to glimpse the 20-foot cascade. There’s a lovely swimming hole, and you can scramble to a rocky overhang to dive into the pool below. On Maui, hike to the Makahiku Falls and climb to the overlook above to view two very different representations of water: the thundering 181-foot cataract below and the vast panorama of ocean beyond. Kauai, “The Garden Island,” is known for its spectacular waterfalls. The beautiful double streams of the Wailua Falls are easily seen from a roadside viewing point.

If you’re looking for a great snorkel experience accessible to Waikiki, I found Hanauma Bay a great spot. Turtles and fish galore.

Spectacular sands—making up the longest stretch of beach in Hawaii—sweep for 15 miles starting here, fringed by postcard-perfect turquoise water. This patch of ocean is rough, rowdy, and perilous: Watch for sneaker waves as you stroll along the coast. Swimmers should stick to the Queen’s Pond, an area girdled by a protecting reef. But the big attraction at Polihale Beach remains the dunes, which can pile up to 100 feet high. In summer, hot sand can slip into your shoes, causing burns; savvy beachgoers wear only wool socks, according to Andrew Doughty, author of the excellent Ultimate Kauai Guidebook. Make sure to pack plenty of water—and also an umbrella, if you plan to linger.

You are lucky the sun only rises and sets once a day on Hawaii—otherwise, you’d spend all of your time transfixed by the horizon. Hike to the leeward (eastern) side of any island on a clear evening and train your eye over the ocean in search of the “green flash,” an optic phenomenon in which a green sliver of light hovers in the wake of the setting sun. (On Oahu, the remote Kaena Point is a good spot to see the flash.) Sunsets on Kauai, “The Garden Island,” make the beauty of the coastal surroundings even more poignant. If you rise early and tackle the Lanikai Pillboxes trail on Oahu or summit the volcano at Haleakala National Park on Maui, you’ll experience an unforgettable morning as the sun rises over the ocean for a new day.

In the heart of old town Kapaa, the Olympic overlooks Main Street with laid-back Hawaiian style. Upstairs in an old building that’s been converted into a collection of ragtag shops, the cafe has a commanding presence. Park and wander along the street to make your way to the stairs leading up to the bar and cafe. No pretense upon arrival. The tables lining the open windows in front are choice for people watching and catching the breeze from the prevailing trades. Late afternoon sun streams in and heats things up but is a welcomed delight. There’s always something cold close by to help with the temperature regulation. The bar is a mix of locals and tourists. Happy hour is a draw from four to six with discounts on drinks and select appetizers. I’m a big fish fan when near the source and the fish tacos at the Olympic take the gold. Dressed with a mango salsa and sides of beans and rice, they use two kinds of fish to keep your tastebuds guessing. There is a good selection of island beers and all the fruity umbrella drinks you can imagine. It’s right on the Kapaa multi-use path, so you can cruise in on your beach bomber for a refreshing break. Staff are friendly and service is casually good. Worth a stop when trolling around Kauai for someplace to take a break from vacation.

Take a riverboat up the Wailua—which translates as the “river of the great sacred spirit"—fed by the Mount Waialeale shield volcano, one of the wettest spots on the planet. Seven temples once stood along Hawaii’s longest and only navigable freshwater passage. Today, the remains of four are still visible, alongside petroglyphs and rocks where the island’s alii (royalty) would give birth. Stretch your legs at the stunning Fern Grotto: Verdant plants blanket the roof of the volcanic-rock cave there. Smith’s offers 80-minute tours there on open-air boats, which include the songs and stories of ancient Hawai’I, plus a bonus hula lesson (smithskauai.com).

Duke Kahanamoku, the father of modern surfing, once visited and enjoyed Nawiliwili Bay, which this restaurant now overlooks. Grab Korean street tacos and fire-roasted-veggie flatbread at the Barefoot Bar (especially fun at Aloha Hour from 4 to 6 p.m. daily). Or slip into street clothes and head to the dining room for dishes like Maui onion soup and seared seven-spice ahi.