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A Burmese Salad That Says Welcome

How to Lose Your Way and Not Panic

Beauty Safari: Behind the Lens with Photographer Jessica Antola

On a luxurious journey from Singapore to Bangkok, writer Chris Colin lifts the veil on the magic—and mystery—of rail travel.

Traditions on the Brink of Change: Photographer Eric Lafforgue

Sunset from the plaza of the Schwedegon Pagoda, Rangoon, Burma.

I was nervous to head to Yangon, Myanmar this past winter for a week of solo travel. Once I arrived, I found an incredible city with even more fascinating and friendly people. Shut off from the rest of the world for quite some time, Burma is reawakening. There’s charm in everything - from the grand, gorgeous and crumbling architecture to the small moments ... like this rusted can of of milk serving as a peanut container.

Burma Superstar lives up to its name. Opened more than 20 years ago, the Inner Richmond restaurant has gained a following for such specialties as hand-wrapped samosas filled with meat and potatoes, chili lamb, and traditional rice salad. Known for its curries and use of spices, Burmese cuisine combines the flavors of India, Laos, China, and Thailand. All these influences come together seamlessly on Burma Superstar’s wide-ranging menu, which features home-style dishes prepared with traditional recipes. The restaurant also has locations in Oakland and Alameda. Reservations aren’t accepted.

I hope that every traveler has the opportunity to experience sunrise from a temple in Bagan - one of the most astonishing places on earth. In general, the history of Burma is amazing. Specifically, the history of Bagan is unlike any other on earth. It’s a little dizzying, in fact - tens of thousands of temples built on a dusty plain by kings, emperors, war lords, and chieftains that stretch on and on until the buck up against the horizon. The best way to explore Bagan is to get out on foot and wander - preferably in the presence of a knowledgeable local guide.

The secret to having a good time in Bagan has nothing to do with getting there - all that takes is faith in a Burmese pilot and his ancient aircraft, or an unwavering belief that your 13-hour bus ride from Yangon will actually deliver you to the dusty plains before all your hair turns grey (update: travelers now have the options of new turboprop airplanes and the new highway means that drive time is now approximately seven hours). The secret is in finding a new way to look at the temples themselves, at just the right time of day, and in just the right light. I’ll never understand why most visitors cluster together to climb one pagoda when the plains are littered with thousands of others that afford anyone willing to visit a wholly new perspective on an oft-visited place. This is the way I look at every destination, whether new, old, untamed or untrammeled.

The original Jade Buddha Temple was built in the late-19th century to house two jade Buddha statues brought from Burma by a monk named Hui Gen. They remain the principal attractions of the temple, especially the larger of the two, a seated Buddha carved from a single piece of white jade and weighing 205 kilograms (452 pounds). This is an active Buddhist monastery, and you’ll see monks throughout the buildings and grounds, as well as locals who come here to worship. The complex has gone through cycles of destruction and repair, first during the uprising that led to the overthrow of the Qing dynasty, and later during the Cultural Revolution. There is also a popular vegetarian restaurant at the temple.

Despite a name change from Mia’s Yunnan Kitchen to Julie’s, this inexpensive, cheerful restaurant in the French Concession continues to serve delicious cuisine from southern Yunnan province. Kunming, Yunnan’s capital, is 1,900 miles from Beijing, and the province’s cuisine has more in common with neighboring Burma, Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam than it does with other regional Chinese cuisines. The most unique dish on the menu is rubing—pan-fried goat’s-milk farmer cheese, simply seasoned with salt and pepper. It’s very simple but unusual: When have you seen dairy in Chinese cooking? Eat it with pickled mashed potatoes, spicy mint salad, and plenty of mushrooms—they’re native to Yunnan.

A traditional teahouse reimagined for a globe-trotting crowd, this airy space can be found up a flight of creaky stairs inside a colonial-era building. Black-and-white vintage films of the city flicker on one wall and there is an excellent version of the Burmese staple mohinga—a soupy stew of rice noodles and fish—as well as curries, salads, traditional tea, coffee, cocktails, wine and craft beers.

Possibly the most important and influential publishers of graphic novels in the last 20 years, Drawn & Quarterly has a must-visit shop in the cool Mile End neighborhood. It sells work from the extensive D&Q catalog (which includes Joe Sacco, Lynda Barry, and Adrian Tomine) and from other publishers. Check out 184 Rue Beaubien by local graphic artist Cyril Doisneau.

A UNESCO World Heritage site in a mountain valley about 40 miles west of Da Nang, My Son is a vestige of the Champa kingdom, a culture that was heavily shaped by Hindu beliefs and practices. Built between the 4th and 14th centuries, the temples pay homage to the god Shiva, though the deity is often referred to here by different names. While some of the shrines are partially restored, and others overgrown with greenery or showing their age (many were destroyed by American bombing during the Vietnam War), the sheer scope of the ruins are proof of the reach of Hinduism and the lofty ambitions of the Cham kings.