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AFAR chose a destination at random—by literally spinning a globe—and sent comedian Jorma Taccone on a spontaneous journey to Nairobi, Kenya.

Kenya’s lodgings offer something for everyone, whether you’re looking for a boutique hotel in Nairobi, an eco-friendly lodge with stunning views, or a safari camp in the Maasai Mara with luxurious tents, delicious food, and a swimming pool.

There’s loads to do if you have 48 hours in Nairobi. With boutique shops, atmospheric restaurants, and plenty of live music, it’s not hard to see why Nairobi is developing a reputation as one of the coolest cities in the world. There are new skyscrapers, bars, and apartments sprouting up constantly, and no, it’s not the prettiest city ever. But Nairobi’s residents are friendly, motivated, and enthusiastic about their home town, and there’s far more to Nairobi than first impressions might reveal.

You may not expect Kenya to have a booming foodie culture for anyone but the lions, but Nairobi has some surprises in store for you. The sheer variety of options—food trucks, international cuisines, African dishes, and vegan tea shops—will keep you searching for the next thrill.

There’s a really good selection of vegetarian options on most menus at Nairobi restaurants due to the large population of Indian vegetarians living in Kenya. While the only completely vegetarian restaurant is Chowpaty—which serves utterly delicious Indian food—each of the other restaurants on this list offers some of the best veggie fare in town. Expect freshly filled wraps, inventive salads, and tasty pizzas, often served in a fun and funky rooftop location.

Unexpected as it may be to some, Kenya has an excellent food scene—particularly in the capital, Nairobi. On offer is everything from Thai food to freshly baked doughnuts, in venues ranging from high-end gastropubs to leafy garden cafés. As many of these delicious dining spots are hidden away, it’s hard to know where to go. No longer! Here are some of the very best restaurants in Kenya to get you started.

Far above the plains where lions roam, there’s another Kenya, where life moves slowly and the people run fast. Writer Matt Gross tries to keep up.

Right in the heart of Nairobi, the Karura Forest is a tranquil oasis with fragrant eucalyptus trees, open expanses of wild grassland, a waterfall, and hundreds of types of wildlife, including birds, monkeys, and even antelope. On weekends, Nairobians walk their dogs here, cycle the dirt tracks with their families (bike rentals are available), and walk the many trails through this 2,500-acre urban wilderness. Enter via the Limuru Road entrance for the waterfall and for access to the River Café, and via Peponi Road to enjoy a quieter side of the forest.

You can cover a lot of ground if you have two weeks in Kenya—not only enjoying a few of Nairobi’s best restaurants and shops, but also two or three of the spectacular national parks, a visit to the coast, and even, if you’re energetic, a trip to the hippo-filled Lake Naivasha for its epic views of the Rift Valley. Here’s just a handful of the options available to you if you have two weeks in Kenya.

One week in Kenya will no doubt leave you wanting lots more time to explore this wildly beautiful country, but if seven days is all you’ve got, there’s still a great range of sights you can pack in. A good place to start is with a couple of nights in one of Kenya’s national parks, followed by a visit to the Kenyan coast for a little relaxation. Don’t miss a final night or two in Nairobi to pick up some handcrafted gifts and explore Kenya’s capital.

As you approach Lake Naivasha from Nairobi, the one-lane, potholed road rises and you are suddenly treated to a truly awesome view of the Great Rift Valley stretching out to the horizon. Shimmering within that vista is Lake Naivasha, a popular weekend destination for Nairobians. The lake itself is beautiful in a prehistoric-looking way, with wispy, jagged trees jutting up from the water and hippos bathing in the midday sun. Along the boggy shoreline, before the water lilies and tropical grasses give way to the open water, it’s easy to imagine ancient creatures wriggling their way up onto land and eventually evolving into the first hominids. While in the area, explore Hell’s Gate National Park and its gigantic gorge, take a boat trip on the lake in search of hippos, and get your fill of the freshly made pizzas at Camp Carnelley’s.

Hemingways is a new hotel in Karen, which is sort of the equivalent of Atlanta’s Buckhead in Nairobi. It is near the Wilson airport, where so many of the domestic Kenya flights fly out. Traffic is a huge issue in Nairobi and cars creep both by day and night, so being in this area puts you near many of the best restaurants and shops like Anna Trzebinski’ s studio. The Giraffe Manor and the Sheddrick orphanage, where one can adopt a baby elephant, are also nearby.


If you arrange your trip to Kenya with Betty Jo, she can arrange upgrades at Hemingway’s, private visits to the elephant orphanage and Trzbenski’s studio, as well as private local drivers and drinks with a local Kenyan personality. “I can basically do whatever anyone wants,” says Betty Jo. “All bespoke.” Contact her at [email protected].

Chowpaty, Nairobi’s best vegetarian restaurant, serves outrageously tasty dishes from across the Indian subcontinent. On arrival, customers are presented first with a small bowl of warm water to wash their hands in and then with the epic menu. The best item on the menu is the dahi puri: Crispy puffed puri shells are filled with Bombay mix (a crunchy snack mix) and then drizzled with a sweet and sour sauce. Many items on the menu can also be made vegan—just ask. Chowpaty has several locations around town, but the most popular sits in the courtyard at Diamond Plaza, a bustling shopping mall where the Indian community comes for fabrics, clothing, electrical goods, and supermarkets.

A stay at OneFortyEight, in Nairobi’s Langata suburb, feels like hunkering down at your most stylish friend’s home. The former private residence has eight eclectic rooms that blend regional artwork, custom furnishings (by local fashion designer Anna Trzebinski), gothic touches, and feminine finishes and come in a variety of layouts to satisfy every kind of traveler, from two-storey apartments to a three-bed loft perfect for children. A large, welcoming fireplace sits in the middle of the living area to greet guests, dinners take place around a giant wooden table, and a covered lounge overlooks gardens filled with grazing warthogs and tree-leaping monkeys. Days are spent visiting nearby sights—dropping in on the giraffes at the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife Center, adopting a baby elephant at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, or walking in the footsteps of Karen Blixen. Of course, no one could blame you for holing up for the night: each room has access to Wi-Fi and Netflix.

Families would be hard-pressed to find a more memorable place to stay than Giraffe Manor. Located in the leafy suburb of Langata, about a 30-minute drive from central Nairobi, the 1932 family home of a former candy baron was modeled on a Scottish hunting lodge before becoming a sanctuary for endangered Rothschild’s giraffes, for which the boutique hotel gets its name. The ivy-clad brick mansion features 12 light-filled guest rooms, many with gauzy canopy beds and understated furnishings, but the real draw is the airy breakfast room, where you can feed the exceedingly friendly animals as they crane their necks through windows and doors in search of snacks. Afterward, complimentary chauffeured vehicles are on hand to take you to the area’s most popular attractions: at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, the residents being fed are orphaned baby elephants.