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A Guide to the Istanbul Biennial’s Most Unusual Installations

Overview

A solo traveler shares why loneliness is an essential part of traveling alone.

Mumbai’s street snacks are all about fresh ingredients assembled on the spot.

New Dehli is a growing city that is finding the new within the old, creating a new buzz to outshine Mumbai.

When a traveler faces grief in Varanasi, his perspective on life and death goes up in smoke.

In India’s most contradictory city, artists and intellectuals improvise their way through the commotion.

Facing the Arabian Sea and the Gateway of India monument, the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel blends Moorish, Florentine, and Indian architecture. The historic palace wing reopened in 2010 with 243 new rooms and 42 suites, including one that houses the sitar on which legendary Indian musician Ravi Shankar composed his Concerto No. 1. George Harrison checked into the Taj in 1966 to take lessons from the maestro.

Raman Patel knows a lot about silk. He works at Kala Niketan, a Mumbai-based fabric warehouse that started in the south of the city and now has four retail outlets plus exporting offshoots. The company supplies many local fashion designers, who make elaborate saris from the regional silks. While handwoven fabrics have been largely replaced by machine varieties in Mumbai (shown here), the store’s Juhu branch showcases the handmade specialties of other regions—from the royal flower and animal embroideries of Rajasthan to the tightly woven woolen patterns of Kashmir. Raman can tell you all about the differences. Navyug, J.V.P.D. Scheme, V.M. Road, Vile Parle, Mumbai, kalaniketangroup.com

South Mumbai’s 3.5-kilometer-long (2.1-mile-long) waterfront promenade is a popular spot for walking and jogging. Flanked by palm trees and the Arabian Sea on one side and Art Deco buildings on the other, the busy road culminates at its northern end in Chowpatty Beach, famous for its bazaars, fairground rides and food stalls. The best time to walk the boulevard is at sunset, when the twinkling streetlights resemble a string of pearls, giving the promenade its nickname: the Queen’s Necklace.

This astonishing human-powered Laundromat near Mahalaxmi Station is where scores of dhobis (laundrymen) bring dirty clothes from homes and hotels from all over the city each morning to clean them by hand in big open-air troughs. It’s an incredible sight—hundreds of thousands of items of apparel are said to pass through here each day—and what’s even more incredible is that each shirt, vest and sock finds its way back to its rightful owner, clean and folded, later that day.

Mumbai is the home base for the Hindi Film Industry, popularly known as Bollywood, and one of the most iconic industry locations is Film City. Film City is spread across 500 acres, and on most days employs hundreds of artists and technicians. Set up in 1911, the very first Indian films were shot here. Film City has been busy ever since. Bollywood scouts are often on the lookout for travelers/foreigners to fill in as extras for movie scenes and soaps. If this is something you’d be interested in, hang around Film City, or Colaba, and you might find yourself with some screen time.

When you see this UNESCO World Heritage–listed train station, you’ll understand why it’s described as an eastern version of London’s St. Pancras. This imposing reminder of the British raj, designed in an extravagant Victorian-Gothic style with Islamic and Hindu elements thrown in, is often referred to by its colonial name of Victoria Terminus, or VT; a statue of Queen Victoria still lords over the building’s dome. Inside, watch with awe as thousands of people spill on and off the trains—and if you’re feeling brave, have a go at riding the rails yourself.

History fans and art lovers will undoubtedly lose a few hours wandering through this museum (formerly the Prince of Wales Museum of Western India), which covers natural history, archaeology and art. With more than 60,000 objects in the collection, there’s an amazing amount of stuff to see, from ancient Indian artworks (including sculptures from Elephanta Island) and Indian miniature paintings to Indian arms and armor. Make sure you leave time to admire the gorgeous domed building of Indo-Saracenic design.

India is very lucky to have three locations of this Michelin-starred, London-based restaurant: Mumbai, Bangalore, and Delhi. Yauatcha is a casual yet modern Chinese tea and dim sum house. They also offer loose-leaf teas, wok items, and unbelievably good truffle edamame dumplings. Don’t forget to sample their signature macaroons on your way out.