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  • When you’re alone in Tokyo and you need someone to talk to, do as the locals do: Rent a friend.
  • Japan’s former imperial city offers awe-inspiring Shinto and Buddhist temples, beautiful gardens, streets lined with old wooden town houses, and narrow stone lanes where you might see modern-day geisha and stop at an izakaya for a meal.
  • Listing Montreal’s best restaurants is nothing short of a feat; indeed, Montreal has the second largest number of restaurants per capita in all of North America, with a new establishment setting up shop every week or so. From Italian trattorias to izakayas, from hole-in-the-wall bagel shops to classic eateries and French brasseries, to trendy Nordic-inspired and hipster-run taco shops, there is no such thing as leaving Montreal hungry.
  • Chaoyang, China
    By name alone this sounds like a wine bar, but it’s actually a welcoming izakaya, albeit one that has a good selection of wine, as well as sake, shochu, and of course Asahi beer. Vin Vie is on Nongzhanguan Bei Lu, hidden away through a gate and behind a Sichuan restaurant. Dinner here is a cheerful, languid affair as you order a few dishes and drinks, eat and imbibe, and then repeat. Like any izakaya worth its salt, the menu has enough variety to satisfy vegetarians and carnivores. A perfect square of soft, creamy tofu, beef tendon marinated in wine and miso, sardines served warm and in their can, and pickled shishamo (fish) are among the can’t-miss dishes. Reservations are recommended.
  • 5425 N Kolb Rd #115, Tucson, AZ 85750, USA
    A little over a mile from where the deer roam in the saguaro-studded foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains, sit down for some izakaya-style dining. Japanese “tapas” might not be a completely accurate description for this genre of shareable plates, but you get the idea. Ginza is family-owned, and a nice surprise in this corner of the desert. After an evening hike in Sabino Canyon, sit down for your choice of izakaya-plates or fresh sashimi—Tucson is only a six-hour drive from the Pacific, and a four-hour drive from the Sea of Cortez. And if you’ve never had a bowl of ‘real’ ramen (just say ‘no’ to maruchan), you’re in for a revelation of toothsome noodles in porky broth. A few of my favorites are the sautéed shrimp with mild green chilies, the gyoza, and (for a main course) the bibimpbap-chirashi bowl. Over sushi-rice, you’re served a generous sampling of fresh sashimi, tamagoyaki (slightly sweet rolled omelet), sprouts, and seaweed, with a quail egg as a garnish. Korean-inspired spicy/sweet ‘bibim’ sauce tops it off. Chef-owner Jun Arai’s wife, Diana, is from Mexico, which explains the homemade flan on the menu. Take a hike, then take a seat. After the cactus, kampai!
  • 4175 Boul St-Laurent, Montréal, QC H2W 1Y7, Canada
    Not to be mistaken for the popular izakaya of the same name (and same owners) down the street, on Boulevard Saint-Laurent and Avenue des Pins, this Big In Japan is on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Laurent and Rue Rachel. You may not notice the sign, or even the door – it adds to the sense of mystery of this high-class drinking establishment (look for the black door near the fast-food restaurant Patati-Patata). From the vaporous curtains to the long shiny U-bar, the atmosphere here is distinctly speakeasy, and the classic cocktails maintain that illusion. The champagne cocktail will never go unwanted, and the Tom Collins is fizzy and tart, as it should be. Or you could dip into the house specialties: sakes, prune wines and Japanese whiskeys, used bottles of which serve as the basis for this stylish spot’s contemporary lamp fixtures.
  • 3451 Hyde Park Rd., Santa Fe
    Contrary to popular belief, you don’t have to go all the way to Japan to stay at a traditional Japanese ryokan and experience the restorative spa experience of an onsen, or hot springs bath resort. Just 15 minutes from the cultural heart of downtown Santa Fe, Ten Thousand Waves’ 20 sprawling acres are home to one of the United States’ most distinctive and luxurious spa retreats. The nine hot baths are truly restorative, and the spa’s many Japanese-inspired treatments are as pampering and healing as at any top spa. Ten Thousand Waves keeps with the Japanese tradition of baths as a place for fun and socializing, making it especially popular with groups of friends. The festive atmosphere extends to the inn’s izakaya, which serves traditional Japanese cuisine from local ingredients (in other words, no sushi). Each of the 13 cottages draws on nature in its serene aesthetic, with clean lines, natural wood, and traditional artwork, in addition to all the requisite modern luxuries.
  • Japan, 〒153-0051 Tōkyō-to, Meguro-ku, Kamimeguro, 1 Chome−26−1 108
    Wagyu katsu sando (beef cutlet sandwiches) have been around for a long time, but under the able hands of Hisato Hamada, the dish is hip and cool. The sleek, Instagram-friendly, stand-and-eat shop is in the trendy Nakameguro area along the Meguro River. Diners select a cut of marbled beef, ranging in price from 2,000 to 20,000 yen ($19–$190), which is then breaded, deep-fried, and served as a sandwich. Truffle fries and salads round out the menu. Drinks include an impressive selection of craft beers, wine, and champagne.
  • 1155 Robson St, Vancouver, BC V6E 1B5, Canada
    Known for its international flair and heart-of-downtown location, Robson Street is nicknamed Vancouver’s Rodeo Drive for its big-name luxury boutiques concentrated around the intersection at Alberni Street. A short walk from its core is the Pacific Centre shopping mall, where there’s a Holt Renfrew, Canada’s equivalent of Saks Fifth Avenue. After a day of hustle and bustle, grab a bowl of ramen or a plate of sushi at one of the izakayas closer to Stanley Park.
  • While Japan often remains aloof to many first-time visitors, Kyoto feels intentionally difficult to get to know—even to Tokyoites who visit frequently. Getting some kind of entrée to hidden gems is especially useful here. Enter humble American-turned-Kyotoite Nemo Glassman, founder of Plus Alpha Japan. Many years living in Kyoto has given him a deep understanding of the city’s idiosyncrasies, of which there are many. Plus Alpha will arrange insider tours and intimate experiences throughout Kyoto and beyond. His tours aim to facilitate deeper engagement for travelers, whether imbibing with izakaya chefs, practicing zazen meditation with Buddhist abbots, or enjoying a tea ceremony performed by a maiko (apprentice geisha).
  • 6948 Sebastopol Ave, Sebastopol, CA 95472, USA
    As the name suggests, Ramen Gaijin is all about the noodles. Sure, the menu features small-plate, izakaya-style dishes such as briny Miyagi oysters, pork-shoulder gyoza, rabbit confit fried rice, and tako salad, but the real star of the show is the ramen. Chefs and co-owners Matthew Williams and Moishe Hahn-Schuman make rye, sapporo, and soba noodles in-house, and broths are rich and flavorful. One of the favorite options, the Spicy Tan Tan, features pork belly, wood ear mushrooms, spicy ground pork, charred cabbage, and a six-minute egg. The Tonkatsu includes bone marrow in the broth, giving it a savory finish that warms you from the inside. Vegetarian options come with miso broth and include fried tofu and soy-glazed squash. Whichever noodle dish you choose, add an order of house-made kimchi to add a tart contrast. Pro tip: If you’re dining with a friend, order the two-person Hitodama punch bowl, which mixes several rums with apricot, lime, and pomegranate juices.
  • 8/15 Lê Thánh Tôn, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
    A Japanese man making Neapolitan pizza in Vietnam’s business hub might seem like an unlikely scenario, but it perfectly describes Pizza 4P’s. The restaurant now has multiple outlets, including one in Hanoi, but the original spot discreetly tucked away in an alley just off Le Thanh Ton Street is still the most atmospheric. The name is a nod to the owner’s wish in life—for peace—and informs his drive to deliver a pleasurable experience to diners. The pies, as popular with tourists as they are with Saigon residents and the Japanese expat wives who frequent the place on weekday afternoons, are ideal: charred, chewy, pliable crusts; tart tomato sauce; and creamy, homemade mozzarella, crafted by hand outside the city of Da Lat (for an unforgettable meal, order a pizza topped with a whole, unsliced burrata).
  • 381 安里 Naha, Okinawa Prefecture 902-0067, Japan
    Sakaemachi Arcade is a bustling, slightly run-down market area that’s big on character and offers insights into the city’s past. Easily accessed by monorail (take it to the Asato station), the arcade has many shops, including fruit and vegetable stalls, restaurants and bars, and stores selling items like kitchen goods. The area really comes alive after 6 p.m. when the many eateries and izakaya open up, but a daytime visit is still enjoyable—not to mention an opportunity to hunt for distinctly Japanese souvenirs.

  • Journeys: United States
  • Journeys: Mexico + Central America