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Swimming pigs, private islands, and real-life fantasy moments: AFAR staff share their most memorable travel experiences of the year. Part II.

Overview

A few minutes from the shops, galleries, and restaurants of Sedona, but tucked away along the banks of quiet-flowing Oak Creek, L’Auberge de Sedona is one of the Southwest’s most romantic hideaways. It has red-rock views, as every accommodation in Sedona must, but its French-country-inn style, in the land of adobe architecture, and its leafy, creekside location, are what define it. Through a series of chefs, its restaurant, Cress on Oak Creek, has maintained a stellar reputation, in no small part because of the romance of dining at a table that in some cases is practically in Oak Creek. And the spa, L’Apothecary, with at least one seasonally offered treatment requiring guests to wade in up to their ankles, draws much of its essence from the creek, too. Extensive renovations done in 2011 included the redesign of the 58 rooms and cottages, and the addition of 29 more, many with fireplaces, private decks, and—because romance matters—outdoor cedar-lined showers. Still there, and still popular, are the early morning duck feedings and the nighttime telescope sessions with a professional astronomer.

Why we love it: An Arts and Crafts–style masterpiece with a friendly vibe and charm in spades

Highlights:
- Sedona’s only Arts and Crafts hotel, with real adobe walls
- Social spaces like a campfire and living room hearth
- A pet-friendly policy with no extra fees

The Review:
Within a block of Sedona’s art district, this luxury inn stands behind a veil of trees and grapevine trellises. Its pink adobe exterior complements the greenery so elegantly that the inn once appeared on the cover of The American Home magazine. Inside the Arts and Crafts–style hacienda, arches and reclaimed beams of juniper or burl wood soar overhead, while period doorknobs, light fixtures, and heater grilles transport guests back in time. Each of the 12 suites has a custom-made door and unique design, with decor ranging from early California to the Cowboy High Style made famous by Western furniture designer Thomas Molesworth. Pet-friendly rooms also include grace notes like corner fireplaces, stencil designs, French doors, and stained-glass ceiling panels.

When feeling social, guests can gather around the campfire in the courtyard or by the large hearth in the living room. El Portal also has a private garden, a fish pond, two swimming pools, and a full gym, and offers access to Sedona Spa, next door. While the inn only serves breakfast (pancakes, breakfast burritos, huevos rancheros), guests can snack on fruit, cheese, and chips and salsa during happy hour each day while also pouring themselves a glass of wine on the honor system.

Sedona is home to four major vortexes - centers of heightened spiritual and metaphysical energy. One of its foremost is Cathedral Rock, a magnificent red rock formation with soaring spires that resemble a cathedral. On a whim, we booked a guided tour with Sedona Trail Zen, which ended up being the highlight of our trip. Over the course of four hours, our guide, Wyatt, shared insights about local vegetation and wildlife, covered the history of the land, and even took us on some secluded trails. This ten-mile hike, up to Cathedral Rock and down through the surrounding land, gave us a renewed sense of energy and clarity.

Some say that The Chapel of the Holy Cross is located in the heart of a vortex. Others regard it as a place of contemplation and spirituality. The Chapel itself was actually built by a devout student of Frank Lloyd Wright named Marguerite Brunswig Staude in 1956. Staude wanted to create a lasting tribute to her religious beliefs, and was so taken with the beauty of Sedona that she began work on the Chapel. Nestled between massive red boulders, the Chapel is a must see in Sedona. And, if you look carefully enough in the red rocks next, you can still see an Rx carved into the rock as a tribute to Marguerite’s father, a pharmacist.

Why we love it: A boutique resort that perfectly merges relaxation with exploration

Highlights:
- Amenities like an infinity pool, spa, and outdoor fire pits to help you unwind
- Unique offerings like daily yoga classes and nightly social hours with wine
- Weekly stargazing sessions with local astronomy experts

The Review:
This eclectic 100-room property attracts adventurous extroverts ready to explore the surrounding red rocks, then swap tales over morning coffee or happy hour wine. Inside, decor honors the area’s Native American heritage, incorporating elements like grass-woven baskets, headboards crafted from local fallen trees, and desert flower hues against soothing neutrals. Pet-friendly rooms also feature luxurious touches like Italian linens, modern art, and Atelier Bloem toiletries, while suites up the ante with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the desert.

Outdoors, guests can gather around the heated pool and hot tub or several crackling fire pits and admire views of Sedona’s iconic Snoopy Rock. There’s also an award-winning spa for when you need respite from all the hiking, plus a signature restaurant, SaltRock, which serves Southwest favorites alongside creative mezcal cocktails. On Monday nights, local astronomy experts lead stargazing sessions to take in Sedona’s dark skies, and daily yoga classes are included in the resort fee. Other amenities include access to top-rated golf courses, a full-service fitness center, complimentary bikes, and a shuttle that ferries guests within a one-mile radius of the property.

Sitting at the entrance to a secluded red-rock canyon eight miles outside Sedona, Enchantment Resort may be the Southwest’s most visually stunning accommodation. And while the indigenous people who originally inhabited the canyon had more elevated views—their cliffside dwellings are visible to anyone who can tilt their head far enough back—it’s doubtful that even they appreciated the scenery more than travelers arriving from worlds of gray skies and cacophonous congestion. There are numerous guest rooms and configurations, all done in a pueblo style and red-rock hue that blends so well with the surrounding canyon that guests who’ve given into the lunchtime temptation of a second prickly pear margarita at Tii Gavo would do well to carry a resort map (which is handy anyway for the many surrounding hiking options).

As Phoenix heats up, many locals are desperate to escape the desert’s barren landscape and head north to Sedona. Only a two-hour drive from the city, on average, Sedona sees about 60% local valley traffic over the weekends. Route 89A, leading up to Flagstaff, provides many opportunities to veer off course and wander the many trailheads in Sedona. One particular trail is the West Fork Oak Creek Trail. Temperatures are at least 20 degrees cooler here and provides relief from the consistent 101-115 temps. You’ll find water holes and rivers and shade under the evergreens to keep cool and refreshed. Pack a picnic and spend a few hours exploring this trail as it weaves and winds through the forest and up against cliffs and the water’s edge. Hop from rock to rock crossing the stream at five different points along the trail. You won’t sweat too much here as it’s a fairly easy 3 mile stroll. You’ll know when you get to the end of the marked trail - it ventures on but I have yet to figure out how to follow it further to its 14-mile stretch. $9 entrance fee for the day. Word of advice: Get there EARLY to find parking during the weekend and summer months.

If you’re looking for a special spot to celebrate an occasion or a loved one Scottsdale, make your way to T. Cook’s. Chef Paul McCabe is an Arizona native from Sedona’s red rock country who’s inspired by local, seasonal ingredients. His menu abides by fresh Mediterranean principles and features grown-up takes on comfort food. The bolognese, for example, is made with rabbit and sits atop a bed of edible flowers, while short rib-stuffed ravioli is paired with scallops, chanterelle mushrooms, and a little peach for sweetness. Brunch is a popular draw, too, with sweet and savory options that include lemon ricotta pancakes and a pancetta omelet.

There are few places where you can better learn about the beauty and complexity of desert ecology than the Desert Botanical Garden, not far from downtown Phoenix. Check out the Desert Discovery Loop Trail for a look at local flora, go for a flashlight tour or cooking class (using plants found in the region, of course), or catch one of the musical performances that are part of the garden’s concert series. Make a point to visit the Desert Terrace Garden for the best views of the surrounding buttes and desert.

Named after an artistic city in central Mexico, Sedona’s Tlaquepaque Arts and Crafts Village is one of the best outdoor shopping spots in Arizona. Sycamore-shaded fountain-filled courtyards and vine-covered colonnades are home to over forty galleries, boutiques, and restaurants. (The architecture may only be a few decades old, but this is one of the most well-done ‘pseudo-Mexico villages’ in the U.S.) The emphasis is on Southwest sculpture, blown-glass, painting, ceramics, textiles, and jewelry. If you want to take a break from your red-rock ramblings, this is the place.

Featuring mostly local wine and craft beer, South Rims Wine and Beer Garage is located on historic Route 66 in uptown Williams, Arizona. Here, you’ll find some of the best local white and red varietals on tap, such as Keeling Schaefer’s Viognier and Page Springs Cellar’s plum-and-pepper–forward Vino Del Barrio red blend, plus a deep selection of microbrews, including rich Koffee Kölsch from Huss Brewing Company in Tempe and a Hefeweizen courtesy of Oak Creek Brewing Company in Sedona. South Rims’ menu of food items, from the gourmet pretzel basket to the grilled sirloin, pair perfectly with the drink options. You’ll want to allow yourself plenty of time to sip at the bar, or enjoy a full meal on the sprawling outdoor courtyard.