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On a trip to Belize, a new mother learns how the transition from solo travel to family travel can be a surprise.

Overview

With just an old photograph in hand, a writer sets out to understand her father’s role in the Vietnam War—depending entirely on the kindness of strangers willing to help.

One traveler steps off the beaten path into this Nepali town.

Eating Like a King in Hue, Vietnam

A Burmese Salad That Says Welcome

Vietnam’s capital offers hotels with pockets of peace—lakeside tai chi sessions and ancient pagodas—amid the city’s motorbikes and hawker stalls. For a classic stay, book a room at the Sofitel Legend Metropole, a landmark in Hanoi’s French Quarter. Culture junkies should base themselves at the Hotel de L’ Opera Hanoi or the Hilton Hanoi Opera. InterContinental Hanoi Westlake is just north of the bustling Old Quarter, but offers a serene waterfront setting.

A once-impenetrable country reveals itself to writer Matt Gross one meal at a time.

With over 1,000 years gone by since its founding, Hanoi is one of Asia’s grande dames and is not lacking in historical attractions. The city’s many traditions are reflected in its top historic attractions, including stately pagodas, churches, and architecture. The more tragic modern history is not so apparent but can still be glimpsed in remnants and monuments throughout Hanoi.

Sunset from the plaza of the Schwedegon Pagoda, Rangoon, Burma.

Giant Wild Goose Pagoda is a very cool historical site to visit in Xi’an. It was built in the seventh century to house Buddhist scriptures, statues, and other relics that were brought back to China by the Buddhist scholar and traveler Xuanzang. Extended, rebuilt, and renovated over the years, the pagoda currently leans noticeably to the side. There is an interesting legend about how the pagoda got its name. A group of Buddhist monks had no meat to eat (then, as now, not all Buddhists were vegetarian). As some wild geese flew overhead, one monk hoped that the Bodhisattva would provide some meat—at which point, the front goose fell to the ground. The monks believed this was a sign that they should be more pious. They decided to give up eating meat, and established a pagoda at the point where the goose had fallen. Visitors can pay to climb to the top of the pagoda. We took a pass on the day we were there because there were so many tourists waiting to buy tickets, but the view from the top is said to be excellent.

This is a great little market directly across the street from the Westin and south of the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. It’s oriented towards visitors and tourists, so there are lots of cheap souvenirs. However, there are also plenty of cool, locally handmade things like fabrics and carved statuettes.

The royal capital for more than 140 years during the 19th and 20th centuries, Hue is a not-to-be-missed stop on any itinerary in Vietnam. It was a political, religious, and cultural center for the Nguyen dynasty, the last to rule the country before Vietnam proclaimed itself a republic in 1945. The city, a UNESCO World Heritage site, features a dizzying array of tombs, pagodas, and monuments—but perhaps the most impressive, and certainly grandest, sight is its citadel. Surrounded by a moat and hefty stone walls, the citadel contains the Imperial City, with fortified ramparts, brightly painted pagodas and gateways, beautiful carved-stone dragons, and a palpable sense of the history that unfolded here.

The French destroyed this famous temple in 1954, but it was lovingly rebuilt and remains a favorite with locals. The structure commemorates the legend of Emperor Ly Thai Tong who originally built the temple way back in 1049. The distinctive single pillar is meant to signify the stalk of the lotus flower, a sacred Vietnamese symbol of purity.