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Chris Colin experiences a Caribbean paradise from both sides of a resort’s walls.

An Unexpectedly Romantic Sail Around Fiji

Plus: trouble in the Maldives and a different kind of footie in London

Just a short ferry ride away, St. Kitts’ sister island is perfect for a day trip to climb Nevis Peak, sip a Killer Bee at Sunshine’s Beach Bar, or visit the birthplace of U.S. founding father Alexander Hamilton.

The house in which U.S. statesman Alexander Hamilton was born in 1757 and lived until he was eight years old (when he moved with his family to St. Croix) is now a museum dedicated to tracing his life and achievements. The stone house itself, while handsome, is mostly a restoration, but inside you’ll find fascinating texts describing Hamilton’s childhood, upbringing, and subsequent contribution to politics.

The small museum also features a range of interesting artifacts that chart the history of Nevis, starting with the indigenous Amerindian peoples through the arrival of the Europeans and continuing right up to the present day. After touring the displays, visit the modest gift shop, where you can pick up souvenirs like local stamps and prints.

For a Saturday night out, many locals will head to Beyoğlu’s liveliest street, Nevizade, lined with meyhanes (taverns) and bars where mezes (starters) and seafood are peddled openly and the rakı (aniseed liquor) and Efes beer flow freely. Highlights of a night here are the musicians who roam playing fasıl tunes (classical Turkish music) accompanied with darbuka (drums), violin, clarinet, and the kanun (a triangular-shaped string instrument that sits on the lap or a table). If they come to your table and play a song or two, it’s customary to tip them 10-15T lira. It’s also customary that if you do not wish to part with your money, you politely gesture them to move on before a note is played. Judging by the number of explanatory brackets in this article, a night on Nevizade is a cultural experience and a great way to immerse yourself in local nightlife. Be wary, though—like any crowded place in any part of the world, Nevizade does get very busy, so keep an eye on your valuables. To find Nevizade, walk along Istiklal Caddesi and turn onto Balik Sokak near Çiçek Passage. Nevizade runs off Balik Sokak on the right.

Irish bars tend to be a gathering place for local expat communities, and in Istanbul, that role is played by James Joyce—just off Nevizade Street in Beyoğlu. This bar has the typical attributes of a hospitable Irish establishment with its hearty menu, international beers, wooden bar stools and booths, and country-style ambience. James Joyce hosts live music acts every night of the week and telecasts international sporting events on its big screens. Visit here to bump into your fellow countryfolk.

Dining in a beach chair—or at least a chair by the beach—is an essential part of the experience at Spice Mill Restaurant, which looks directly across the water to St. Kitts’ sister island of Nevis. The menu here journeys across the global culinary landscape, but the fish and produce are sourced as locally as possible—including from the restaurant’s own gardens. Expect fine dining with your toes in the sand.

For an introduction to the Rastafarian culture and lifestyle, head to OJ’s Ital Cart in Basseterre. The brightly painted food truck takes a pure approach to its menu, offering vegetarian fare that’s fresh, natural, and from the earth. Ingredients are grown without chemical pesticides or fertilizers, and even the salt used to flavor dishes is iodine-free. While lines often wrap around the block at lunchtime, the vibe is always fast and fun. When you’re seeking something healthy, join the crowds for pastas, sautéed soya, fresh local juices, and more.

No trip to Antigua, the “Land of Sea and Sun,” would be complete without spending quality time on one (or two, or three) of its fabled 365 sugar-white, sparkling beaches and the Galley Bay Resort and Spa sits on one of the best of the bunch. Galley Bay Beach is graced with three-quarters of a mile of quintessential Antiguan beach. Perfectly sized sand won’t blow in the breeze, palm trees dot its length providing natural shade, beds and hammocks dare you escape their relaxing embrace, and the water… Well… The water looks like you see above. Immaculate. Turquoise. Radiant. In the distance, you can see Nevis and St. Kitts on the horizon almost close enough to touch adding to the impossible perfection.

With more than 400 shipwrecks and its fair share of coral reefs, St. Kitts is a favorite of the scuba set. To try your hand at the hobby, consider staying at Bird Rock Beach Hotel, which houses one of the island’s most popular dive operators. Here, guests can charter a boat to nearby Devil’s Cave and swim among barracuda, lobsters, and nurse sharks, then retire to one of 46 tropical-hued rooms overlooking the sea. Less adventurous travelers can visit the on-site dolphin park, sunbathe on the private beach, or simply sip rum punches from the pool’s swim-up bar. Hotel staff is also happy to arrange off-site activities like catamaran cruises, rainforest treks, and volcano crater tours.

Sugar Ridge is much about the view. One of those rare Caribbean hotels that doesn’t sit at the edge of the sand, this boutique luxury resort, ranging up a hillside on Antigua’s west coast, not only overlooks palm-lined beaches and the marina at Jolly Harbour but also looks out across the greens and blues of the Caribbean toward St. Kitts, Nevis, and Redonda. The rooms, in clusters of four, two upstairs, two down, are Caribbean modern, with a focus on the four-poster, netting-draped, king-size beds. There are two restaurants, two pools, an Aveda Spa, and a fitness center so large it’s almost as if they were expecting a sports team to show up. And beach lovers fear not. A complimentary shuttle will have you down to the shore in minutes.

Goat water is basically a thin soup. Swimming in its brown depths you’ll find lumps of practically any part of a goat (usually bones and all), there’s clove, thyme, plus some other assorted herbs and spices, and depending on what island you find yourself sampling goat water, don’t be surprised to find some additional items in there like small dumplings, yams, and potatoes.


You can find goat water on many islands in the Caribbean from Antigua, Grenada, St. Kitts, Nevis, and many more. It’s even the national dish of Antigua’s neighbor: Montserrat!


On islands like Jamaica, expect a cousin of goat water to be served at weddings… Especially to the grooms. Why? Well, that version also goes by the name “mannish water” so can imagine what the expected results of slurping up a bowl!

A collection of rambling beach bars, The Strip on South Frigate Bay is the best “lime” on St. Kitts—a beach bash by day that transitions to an open-air dance party, moveable feast, and pub crawl by night. The area is within walking distance of the St. Kitts Marriott Resort, but it’s a popular nightlife destination for locals and visitors from all over the island. Don’t miss Mr. X’s Shiggidy Shack, the most famous bar on St. Kitts, where you can enjoy grilled lobster alongside an ever-changing lineup of live entertainment, from karaoke to fire-eaters. Also worth visiting are Vibes (St. Kitts’ closest thing to a sports bar), ChinChillas (for Mexican food), and The Dock Bar, which offers a more relaxed scene and, as its name suggests, its very own dock. Wherever you land, expect live bands and DJs to keep the dance floor hopping well into the wee hours. If you get tired, cool off and then rev up with a “Ting with a Sting,” a popular drink of local CSR rum mixed with grapefruit soda.

A stroll of St. Kitt’s capital, whether started at Port Zante Marina or the centrally located Independence Square, is an entertaining way to learn more about the island’s past. While the French named Basseterre (it means “low land”), the British are responsible for the town’s most recognizable landmark—the green, cast-iron Berkeley Memorial Clock in the center of the Circus, where several streets intersect. Make sure to visit the area, as well as Independence Square, St. George’s Anglican Church, and the Old Treasury Building, which now serves as the National Museum of St. Kitts. Along your walk, you’ll also find duty-free shops and local boutiques, plus a lively produce market by the waterfront if you come on the weekend.