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Can a hotel really rekindle romance? Writer Chris Colin and his wife, Amy, brave a gauntlet of moonlit dinners, rose petals, and beach photo shoots to find out.

It isn’t an easy hike, but few journeys offer insight into indigenous life in Colombia like a trek to the ancient city of Teyuna.

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Jazz great Bill Frisell shows us around the Seattle neighborhood that brings him musical inspiration.

AFAR chose a destination at random and sent writer Brett Martin with 24-hours’ notice to the most challenging island in the Caribbean.

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Officially founded in 1865, Salento is one of Colombia’s quaintest, most traditional towns. Its main street, the cobblestoned Calle Real, is lined with handicraft shops and restaurants that serve delicious, locally farmed trout (among many other Andean favorites). The street ends at the foot of a hill with a staircase leading upward, interrupted at regular intervals by representations of the stations of the cross. A short Jeep ride from town leads to the enchanting Valle de Cocora, where you’ll find wax palms up to 195 feet in height (the tallest known palm species), as well as fantastic birdlife, including Andean condors and yellow-eared parrots, plus legions of adorable hummingbirds. Take a hike or horseback ride into the valley to get access to some of Colombia’s most awe-inspiring lookouts.

Driving in any direction on the Hummingbird Highway, it would be hard to miss this white shack surrounded by cars, in a small clearing immediately next to the road under the shade of a very large tree. Ms. Bertha’s Tamales has little signage, but no signs are needed for locals. Everyone knows about Ms. Bertha Lisbey and her tamales. They are said to be the best in Belize. One of her spiced, gooey chicken-and-corn tamales is a perfect break. Pair it with a hot sauce she has been making almost as long as the tamales, and a cold soda in a glass bottle.


Since Ms. Bertha is now 75 years old, some days it is her daughter who’s the one serving loyal customers and first-time visitors, drawn by the stories that you’ll hear in every corner of the country. The small shack can serve hundreds of tamales a day during peak season yet each one is prepared with the same attention and love. Everyone sits on benches, patiently waiting their turn. There aren’t many places to stop along the Hummingbird Highway, but that’s not the only reason you shouldn’t pass by Bertha’s without turning in. Make sure you stop.

The 2.5-hour walk to Mandor Waterfalls starts out from the town of Aguas Calientes and follows railroad tracks along a river, past homesteads and orchards to the cloud forest. While the falls are not as dramatically high as some, the hike is easy and full of local sights with marvelous orchids and hummingbirds abound the trail. Another plus? The water is cool and refreshing, particularly in the region’s sticky climate. Pack a picnic lunch (and insect repellant) and make an afternoon of it.