Search results for

It had been a long wait for modern art lovers, but after a three-year closure and a $305 million renovation and expansion, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) reopened in May 2016, and was it ever worth the wait. A new 10-story addition from the renowned Norwegian design firm Snøhetta integrates seamlessly with the existing black-and-white-striped atrium tower, giving San Francisco‘s SoMa neighborhood some serious eye-candy. It’s also now the largest modern and contemporary art museum in America, with nearly triple its previous gallery space. New to the already impressive collection are selected works from the esteemed Doris and Donald Fisher Collection, featuring significant American and European artists of the 20th and 21st centuries such as Andy Warhol, Ellsworth Kelly, Alexander Calder, Georg Baselitz, Barbara Hepworth, and Henry Moore, among many others. Gifts of painting, sculpture, drawings, media arts, and architecture made to the museum since 2009 also rotate through various galleries, while the entire third floor is dedicated to the Pritzker Center for Photography. Visitors take a breather in the tranquil sculpture garden with enormous living wall, or in the fifth floor Cafe 5. Along with offering free entry to visitors 18 years old and under, SFMOMA invites you to try In Situ, the museum’s signature 150-seat lounge and restaurant, helmed by Michelin-star chef Corey Lee, with a menu of dishes culled from the recipes of some 80 chefs from around the world.

Last April, I spent a morning hiking along the San Pedro River, just NW of Bisbee, AZ; the caterpillars were astoundingly abundant. When I stopped, I could hear them munching on leaves all around--a surround-sound of crunching, the aural fecundity of spring. Between Sierra Vista and Bisbee, the high grassland highway slowly slopes down to this cottonwood-lined river--one of the few free-flowing rivers left in the Desert Southwest. This ribbon of forest stretches from the Mexican border up towards the lower-elevation desert, providing a flyway for migrating birds and even habitat for the occasional jaguar (very rare). In the late 1980’s, this area was made a National Conservation Area, and it’s a nice shady walk in what can often be sun-blasted country.

The Great Market Hall in Budapest should be any visitors first stop in order to get acquainted to the people, goods and grub of Hungary. The market is one of those strange places that caters to both locals and tourists alike without losing its authentic appeal. Under one roof you can by meats and sausages, Royal Tokaji wine, paprika, hot Hungarian favorites, such as Goulash, an assortment of pickled vegetables and fresh produce. The upper floor has small eateries, where you can sample a variety of Hungarian favorites for very little money.

One of the iconic sights of the American Southwest, Taos Pueblo has been inhabited for at least a thousand years. The adobe architecture seems to spring, organic, from the earth at the foot of Taos Mountain. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, but a living community, not a museum. San Geronimo church, at the center of the pueblo, is a relative newcomer here--built in the mid-19th century to replace the Spanish mission that was destroyed in 1847, when U.S. troops bombarded it as part of a campaign to quell a rebellion. Its history has been turbulent, but the setting is beautiful, and Taos Pueblo welcomes respectful visitors today. Before exploring on your own, take the time to listen to one of its college-student docents on a brief guided walk. They’ll be telling you about their families...

The Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca has a commanding presence in the landscape overlooking Bologna. We arrived knowing that it was connected to town by a 2.5 mile portico some say can be seen from space. We dropped our bags at the hotel, grabbed some water and headed for the hills. No map, no directions. There are signs that guide you, eventually. Get a map. The streets and neighborhoods heading up to this massive, covered staircase are wonderful to get lost in, which we easily did. Finding the entrance, we began our pilgrimage to the church at the top of the stairs. There are 15 chapels celebrating the Mysteries of the Rosary, kind of like the stations of the cross for any of the Catholics in the audience. We hike/jogged up to the top, stopping along the way to enjoy the view and the artwork. The 18th century Sanctuary at the top provides spectacular views of the Emilia/Romagna countryside and of Bologna in the valley below. It was hot and sunny on our visit, but one of the locals told us it snows up on the hill during the winter. We had a quick decent, then out to happy hour where the specialty is the appertivo bar. For the cost of a glass of wine or cocktail, many of Bologna’s restaurants invite you to graze gratis at the traditional piccoli morsi trays laid out across the bar. It’s easy to make an evening out of nibbling on a variety of meats, cheeses, pastas, pizzetes and deserts at any number of stops. After a long, inspiring walk; my kind of tradition.

Since opening its doors in 1993, Sandvika Storsenter (Sandvika shopping center) has grown to include an overwhelming 190 shops and restaurants. They are located in Sandvika, Bærum, on the outskirts of Oslo. The shopping center was named the best in all of the Nordic countries in 2011, and is still among the largest in all of Scandinavia. There are all kinds of shops here in all price ranges. It’s easy to get here too; a free shuttle bus runs you right there from Oslo Central Station.

The central market of Iráklion is an exhilarating mix of tourist shops and traditional stalls that don’t seem to have changed in years. Old-fashioned butchers and grocers sit side by side with bakers and cheese mongers. You’ll find it nearly impossible to resist buying a sweet melon or some briny olives, and the bustling atmosphere is suitably authentic.

Santa Monica is officially on the map with this spectacular property, the second hotel for the Proper brand after its debut in San Francisco in 2017. Like at the first location, celebrity interior designer Kelly Wearstler heads up interiors and has produced an absolute stunner, drawing inspiration from her own Malibu home as well as the hotel’s circa-1928 Spanish Colonial Revival building. (The property actually straddles two buildings; the other half is a sleek new construction, connected by a courtyard and sky bridge to the historic part.) The 271 pet-friendly rooms feature original Kelly Wearstler wallpaper, vintage lamps and tables, and custom-made sunburst headboards that remind you you’re near the beach. Guests can also look forward to roomy bathrooms, complete with travertine marble, full-size Aesop bath products, and super-soft Parachute for Kelly Wearstler robes.

Around 700 people live in the only permanent settlement in the Juan Fernández Archipelago, San Juan Bautista on Isla Robinson Crusoe. Although no longer as isolated as it was when Alexander Selkirk, the likely inspiration for Robinson Crusoe, was a castaway in the archipelago, the village is still remote. It can take up to two days to make the sea crossing from the Chilean mainland (but less than two hours by plane). While most of San Juan Bautista’s residents rely on catching crab, fish and lobsters for their incomes, tourism during the summer season is an increasingly important part of the local economy.

The former Colegio de San Ildefonso is a magnificent colonial structure set around several imposing, multistoried arcades with halls now decorated by some of Mexico’s most spectacular murals. Even better, it serves as one of the city’s most ambitious and engaging art museums, with an edgy, wide-ranging focus that never fails to surprise. Recent years’ exhibitions have featured avant-garde foreign artists like Vik Muniz and Ron Meuck; homegrown blockbusters like Javier Marín; Candida Höfer’s striking architectural photography; and Marilyn Manson’s macabre visual works. Try to get a peek into the Colegio’s old amphitheater, where one of Diego Rivera’s first major commissions looks better than ever.

Two of Manila’s most famous churches can be found in close proximity to each other within the historic walled city of Intramuros. The 16th-century San Agustin Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the oldest church in the Philippines and was the only building in Intramuros to survive heavy bombing in World War II. It boasts an impressive interior with trompe l’oeil effects, a Baroque pulpit and a majestic pipe organ, and the museum houses treasures of Old Manila. A few blocks away, the Manila Cathedral, restored many times since the original version was built 450 years ago, hosts religious artworks and sacred relics and was visited by Pope Francis in 2015.

Colorful embroidery, beadwork and handwoven textiles are hallmark souvenirs from Guatemala. Browse among the crafts as well as artwork, clothing and household items at this hyperlocal market in the Old Zone of Puerto Barrios, also known as Zone 1. Bargaining is expected.

If you love textiles as much as I do, you’ll love Guatemala. Everywhere I looked, there were beautiful embroidered as well as woven fabrics. I came home with more than my fair share! If you go to Guatemala and you find yourself in Antigua, consider taking a short trip to the nearby village of Santiago Zamora. There, you will find an enterprising group of village women who have formed a cooperative to sell the traditional Guatemalan handicrafts that they make themselves and these include textiles woven on simple backstrap looms. The village girls contribute as well, making small stuffed animals from the fabrics woven by the older women. The money from the sales of the handicrafts goes directly back into the village, primarily for the welfare and education of the children but also for the overall benefit of the village. You do have to pay a bit more by buying from the women in Santiago Zamora but it does go to a good cause and you will return home not only with a beautiful textile but with some priceless memories as well.

These places to stay are as varied and wonderful as the city itself.

When it opens on June 12, Dos Rios in the San Joaquin Valley will be California’s first new state park in nearly a decade.