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Overview

Overview

Sand, sun, surf and unspoiled mountain terrain—there’s a lot to love about Martinique. This is the ultimate “do as you like” Caribbean island, offering a heady mix of action, adventure, wining and dining, and well-deserved relaxation.

A journey into the ethnic neighborhoods redefining the City of Light

This iconic bar sits on stilts above the sea at the Hotel Bakoua in the sultry resort area of Trois-Ilets, just across the Bay of Fort-de-France from the island’s capital city. People don’t come here for the drinks (stronger and better can easily be had elsewhere). They don’t come for the snackfood, or to ogle the topless beauties on the shore either (okay, perhaps a few are attracted by the latter). No, instead they come for the vibrant sunshine, the spectacular views across the Bay, and the soothing sea current that massages those who wade into the waters surrounding the bar.

What’s old is new again in Saint-Pierre, a city built under majestic Mount Pelée on Martinique’s Caribbean coast. In 1902, Mount Pelée volcano erupted, leveling the city and killing all 30,000 inhabitants– save one lucky prison inmate, whose thick cell walls protected him from the blast. Today, the rebuilt Saint-Pierre honors its fiery past at the Musée Volcanologique, a mini-Pompeii filled with carefully preserved relics. History meets modernity at the southern entrance where seven inspired, contemporary Caribbean artists have created 32 colorful totem sculptures welcoming guests. There are also popular dive sites nearby, where scuba divers can swim alongside century-old wrecks of ships that sunk in the explosion.

With its striking white facades and terra-cotta rooftops, you might mistake Cap Maison for a Mediterranean villa on the Costa Brava. However, this all-inclusive resort set on a former sugar plantation on St. Lucia’s north coast offers more than meets the eye. The pastel-hued interiors are matched by the sunny dispositions of the superb staff, who cater to every request, whether it’s finding a shady spot by the terraced pool area, booking a paddleboarding excursion off the private beach on Smuggler’s Cove, or arranging for the house yacht to take you to the neighboring island of Martinique for the day. Don’t miss the sunset views at the Cliff at Cap restaurant, where locally sourced dishes like reef conch ceviche and passion fruit soufflé are topped off with some of the resort’s house-made rum.

Like on French counterparts Martinique and St. Martin, Guadeloupean rhum agricole is distilled from 100 percent pure sugar cane juice rather than from molasses (and is known as “rhum” versus “rum”). A number of well-respected small rhum factories in Guadeloupe—including Boulogne, Damoiseau, and Bellevue—offer distillery tours year-round, and these are particularly interesting during the sugar cane harvest season between February and June. Domaine de Bellevue, in Marie-Galante, is a solid pick for a full educational experience. You’ll see the ancient sugar mill, learn about the eco-friendly distillery process, and taste various rhums (including one flavored with Ethiopian beans) as well as a traditional ti’ punch, Guadeloupe’s official cocktail. There’s on-site shopping as well in case you’d like to stock up for home.

The colonial town of St. Pierre, on Martinique’s west coast, has a colorful past. Rich from the earnings of the sugar and rum trades, it was once considered the Paris of the Caribbean—until 1902, when it was destroyed by the violent eruption of the island’s largest volcano, Mount Pelée. A volcano museum in St. Pierre displays items plucked from the rubble and historic photos of the town before and immediately after the eruption. Today, the fine church with historic displays bears testament to the town’s comeback.

A lively produce market takes place in the Grand Marché Couvert, a huge 1880s glass-and-steel building tucked into Fort-de-France’s tight town center. Rows of vendors sell mangoes, pineapples and other tropical fruits, as well as herbs, spices and medicinal elixirs. The pointy, wide-brimmed straw hat called the bakoua makes a great souvenir.

Martinique can be busy in places—that’s the price you pay for paradise, I suppose—but Les Salines Beach can be yours and yours alone if you’re one of the early risers. One of the most iconic stretches of sand on Martinique, Les Salines is enjoyed by many revelers during holidays and peak season, but few folk arrive early in the morning—when the sun is still soft, the surf gentle, and the sand all your own.

This botanical wonder is home to thousands of native plant species, including heliconias, hibiscus and bromeliads. Guests enjoy strolling around the three-hectare (seven-acre) grounds, where hundreds of palm trees tower over creeks and tiny hummingbirds flit among the lush foliage. An aerial walkway suspended 15 meters (49 feet) high in the canopy gives visitors views of the Balata Garden, the mountains and Fort-de-France Bay. There’s also a fine old plantation house on the grounds.

Lush rainforests, iconic peaks, and secluded beaches make for a one-of-a-kind vacation in the Caribbean with this five-day St. Lucia itinerary.