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Wandering Chef: Massimo Bottura in Milan

The Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca has a commanding presence in the landscape overlooking Bologna. We arrived knowing that it was connected to town by a 2.5 mile portico some say can be seen from space. We dropped our bags at the hotel, grabbed some water and headed for the hills. No map, no directions. There are signs that guide you, eventually. Get a map. The streets and neighborhoods heading up to this massive, covered staircase are wonderful to get lost in, which we easily did. Finding the entrance, we began our pilgrimage to the church at the top of the stairs. There are 15 chapels celebrating the Mysteries of the Rosary, kind of like the stations of the cross for any of the Catholics in the audience. We hike/jogged up to the top, stopping along the way to enjoy the view and the artwork. The 18th century Sanctuary at the top provides spectacular views of the Emilia/Romagna countryside and of Bologna in the valley below. It was hot and sunny on our visit, but one of the locals told us it snows up on the hill during the winter. We had a quick decent, then out to happy hour where the specialty is the appertivo bar. For the cost of a glass of wine or cocktail, many of Bologna’s restaurants invite you to graze gratis at the traditional piccoli morsi trays laid out across the bar. It’s easy to make an evening out of nibbling on a variety of meats, cheeses, pastas, pizzetes and deserts at any number of stops. After a long, inspiring walk; my kind of tradition.

Porfirian-era mansions are the setting for many hotspots in Mexico City, from restaurants and bars to design boutiques. Roma Quince falls into the latter category; this “concept store” has an abundance of home goods and clothing, all made in Mexico. There are enough items to decorate your entire home, though your suitcase might not be large enough to accommodate the spoils of such a shopping spree. If it all becomes a bit much, head to Carlota & Emilia, located in the same house, for brunch or a pick-me-up.

You haven’t truly experienced Texas until you’ve visited the hallowed grounds of the Alamo. Established in 1718 as the Mission San Antonio de Valero, the building is best known as the site of the 1836 Battle of the Alamo, a 13-day siege under Mexican president General Antonio López de Santa Anna that ultimately killed nearly all of the Texan defenders. To stroll past the limestone facade and envision the battle that played out here is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. For a real treat, book an after-hours tour and get the Texas landmark all to yourself as you walk in the footsteps of the fallen soldiers.

Puerto Vallarta, on Mexico’s Pacific coast, no longer lacks small, design-driven hotels. Located in the city’s Old Town, Amapa has 55 guest rooms that display Mexican weavings by fiber artist Mariella Motilla and hammocks handmade in the Yucatán peninsula. From $200. This appeared in the May/June 2018 issue.

True, it’s not much to look at, inside or out, but this humble shop produces the best handmade sandals in all of Puerto Vallarta. Samples of the various styles of leather sandals, or huaraches, hang on white pegboard; choose one you like and try it on for size. If it doesn’t fit, don’t worry; the resident zapatero can make a pair custom fitted to your feet.

On this week’s episode of Travel Tales by AFAR, a family travels to Cremona, Italy, to learn how violins are made—and take home much more than memories.