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AFAR chose a destination at random—by literally spinning a globe—and sent food writer Francis Lam on a spontaneous journey to St. Vincent.

With five tropical islands and daily ferries connecting them, there are plenty of options for outdoor exploration across Guadeloupe. Go beach hopping from black to pink to white sands; surf the Atlantic or dive the Jacques Cousteau Reserve; conquer waterfalls or hike to the summit of La Grande Soufrière volcano. Also enjoy the Afro-Caribbean pulse of the markets and food trucks, dance freely to gwo-ka drumming sessions roadside or in the studio, and go rhum tasting. When you’re up for a slice of France, spend days in Les Saintes’ fabulous bistros and boutiques.

St. Lucia’s iconic twin peaks—Gros Piton and Petit Piton—dominate the island’s scenery, soaring 2,500 feet from the sea on the island’s southwest Soufrière corner. Designated a World Heritage Site along with the surrounding Pitons Management Area, these volcanic spires take every first-time visitor’s breath away. There are various ways to experience the Pitons. The brave hike either peak—Petit Piton is more strenuous, and the trail isn’t marked; Gros Piton has marked trails and is a two- to three-hour hike from the village of Fond Gens Libre. Others opt to take it easy and sail past them on a catamaran cruise, or view them from land along the coast or from the terrace of La Haut’s restaurant. Sugar Beach, facing Gros Piton, offers a frontal view of the peaks as you swim.

Locals consider La Soufrière—St. Vincent’s massive active volcano that last erupted in 1979—the “queen of climbs.” Approachable from either the leeward or windward coast, the hike to the 4,000-foot summit is a serious, all-day excursion. You’ll need stamina and sturdy shoes—and a knowledgeable guide from the National Parks Authority—to safely reach the top, but once there you’ll enjoy breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape and sea. Keep your eyes peeled for a rare sighting of the St. Vincent parrot on the way back down.

Sip a passion fruit punch at this small beach hut beside Saint Mark Parish—Soufrière’s splendid Roman Catholic church, built in 1880—then hop in the homespun sulfur soaking pools on the shoreline. Here, a fumarole warms the sea water and injects bubbles into this natural volcanic spa. For an even more indulgent experience, rent a sun lounger, book a session with the massage therapist, or visit for a Sunday barbecue, when live music creates a festive vibe.

Covering nearly two thirds of Basse-Terre island, Guadeloupe National Park is an astounding 54,000 acres of lush rain forest, plus offshore mangrove and coral reefs. Some of the island’s best-known sights are inside the park, including active La Grande Soufrière volcano at its center, 4,800 feet above sea level. The park also contains famous waterfalls like Carbet Falls and the Cascade aux Ecrevisses, and Les Bains Jaunes thermal pool is a refreshing swim after conquering one the park’s many hiking trails. Nature lovers will swoon over the 800-plus species of flora and fauna here, ranging from orchids to bats to the endangered agouti (a type of small rodent). You can explore Guadeloupe National Park on your own or go with an outfitter like Vert Intense, an eco-friendly operation that knows every inch of this vast green escape, and also offers canyoning.

Propped up on stilts, each of Jungle Bay’s 35 cottages feels like a private tree house, complete with an open-air shower. Overlooking Point Mulatre Bay, the hillside resort offers a full schedule of outdoor activities, from walking along the White River to swimming at the base of roaring Victoria Falls.

Luxury yoga retreats are one of the hottest trends in travel—experience it firsthand at Jungle Bay. This award-winning boutique wellness resort seamlessly blends adventure, relaxation, and creature comforts, like a pampering foot massage at the Spa du Soleil—an ideal way to unwind after a day of hiking. Practice yoga in two expansive outdoor studios overlooking the Caribbean Sea, dine on local specialties made with freshly caught fish and organic ingredients, and stay in one of 30 eco-villas outfitted with bamboo furnishings, hand-painted beddings, and jungle spa bathrooms.

—This appeared in the November/December 2010 issue.

Two of Dominica’s top scuba sites snuggle together in southwestern Soufrière Bay: La Sorcière (Witches Point) and, just to its north, L’Abym (the Abyss). Both are dramatic wall dives, poised between steep topside cliffs and a submerged crater. While divers often see turtles here, you should also keep an eye out for frogfish, seahorses, and flying gurnards amid the orange elephant ear sponges, bright as prison jumpsuits.

Set on the grounds of a cacao plantation turned hotel, Boucan’s open-air restaurant is just one more fine-dining option with impressive views, in this case, St. Lucia’s verdant hills and Petit Piton. But the difference between Boucan and the others is that Boucan offers a menu informed by its immediate surroundings, throwing a hint of cacao into many of the dishes. Chocolate balsamic vinegar, cacao butter dip, chocolate onion soup—a meal here is a unique experience. Dessert, of course, is divine; opt for the molten chocolate cake. For more insight, ask for a walking tour around the plantation’s cacao groves. Better yet, sign up to take part in a tree-to-bar chocolate-making experience.

When La Soufrière erupted in 1902, lava flowed down to the sea and created a five-mile-long moonscape on the volcano’s east slope. Today, if you visit during a tropical rain shower, you’ll see the riverbed transform almost immediately from a mere trickle to a gushing stream—and, because of its porous lava base, dry up just as quickly.

From the moment you touch down on the grounds of the 135-acre working cocoa farm, a stay at the Fond Doux feels like a step back in time. It begins in your suite, one of 15 cottages that have been lovingly restored by owners Lyton and Eroline Lamontagne in the colonial style, with traditional gingerbread trim, four-poster beds, and pastel walls. Though some cottages have private plunge pools, you’ll want to make your way to the cascading main pool, which overlooks a verdant rain-forest glen. If all this sounds a little sleepy, don’t fret: A free shuttle is available to whisk guests to nearby Sugar Beach, and frequently rotating minibuses pass the hotel on their way to restaurants and shops 10 minutes away in Soufrière.

It’s easy to see why Jade Mountain is consistently ranked St. Lucia’s most romantic hotel. Rising high above the sea and offering an unparalleled view of the Pitons, the hotel features adults-only rooms with an open concept (the so-called “sanctuaries” are missing a fourth wall), equally dramatic alfresco baths, and private jewel-toned infinity pools with otherworldly vistas. (The resort was also the backdrop for a season finale of The Bachelor.) James Beard Award–winner Allen Susser prepares the food of love in the on-site restaurant using ingredients cultivated in the resort’s private organic farm, and a rotating schedule of weekly classes, from rum tastings to a tandoori cooking lesson, encourages shared experiences. Guests also have access to the rendezvous-worthy beaches and spa of sister property Anse Chastanet, located just down the hill.

Dasheene, the restaurant in the award-winning Ladera Resort, is a magical place unlike any other on the island. The open dining room, overlooking the sea, is so close to the Pitons that you feel as if you could reach out and touch the peaks. The menu, which focuses on ingredients sourced from local farms and plantations, puts a creative spin on classic St. Lucian cuisine, including plantain gratin with a coconut rum sauce, and roast conch. The restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch as well, but there’s no beating the romantic atmosphere and sunset views at dinner, which make a meal here well worth the high price.

This local joint lives up to its playful name: multicolored stools, round picnic tables, an open-air setting covered by a leafy roof, and its lively bar patrons and pool-playing crowd. A chalkboard menu lists the daily specials, which include creole dishes, grilled pork, and barbecue chicken as well as local vegetables like callaloo. Arrive on the earlier side of noon—sometimes the food runs out, and sometimes there’s a long wait. The cold beer makes this a popular place with the locals, and it can help soothe impatience while you wait.

Around for over 10 years, this small “ital” (vegetarian) and vegan spot dishes out flavorful, affordable, and creative lunches in the one-table interior of a green house in Soufrière’s downtown. Favorites include the house pizza, a pie with whole-wheat crust topped with lentils, cabbage, pumpkin, and cheese. Other options include salads, veggie burgers, empanadas, smoothies, fresh juices, and a special cocoa tea. The atmosphere is about as casual as it gets, with a TV loudly blasting as locals stop by for a bite and to hang out.