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AFAR’s first-ever Travel Happiness survey asked: What is your happiest travel memory? We read about surrendering to a storm in Honduras, a photo shoot with orangutans, a family dinner in 14th-century French châteaus—and a parade of corgis.

Overview

Wandering Chef: Rob Zack in Poland

Seeking the wonderfully disorienting effect of travel, writer Taras Grescoe ventures to Budapest, where bewilderment ensues.

First off, you should know how to say ‘cheers’ in Polish: Twoje zdrowie! You’ll hear the toast often as you wander the medieval streets of this welcoming city. Student spots, elegant rooftop lounges, old taverns, vodka bars—drink the vodka, the local beer, or a flute of sparkling wine and practice this important Polish phrase.

If the only Polish foods that come to mind are kielbasa and pierogi, you probably already have a pretty positive attitude for exploring the cuisine of Kraków. From the simple pretzel bought on the street, to the exquisite dessert at one of the medieval city’s fine-dining restaurants, to a robust lunch eaten in a communist-era milkbar, you will find much to love in the food here.

A five-minute walk from the main market square and you’re at Kogel Mogel, a cozy, velvet-curtained spot for traditional Polish cuisine. On the cheeky menu, printed to look like a Communist newspaper, watch out for the pierogies and the house specialty: goose marinated in red wine and served with plums.

Berlin: Off the Wall

A short walk away from the center of the Old Town is the four-star Hotel Kossak; its rooftop Cafe Oranżeria has a fabulous panoramic view over the Wawel royal complex, the Vistula river, and the Old Town. It’s easy to spend an evening in the Oranżeria and barely notice the food, so spectacular is the view. Fortunately the quality of the cuisine is also first-class and it is rightly considered one of Krakow’s best restaurants.

In the last two decades the shops along the narrow alleys and cobbled streets of Kazimierz have attracted a variety of artists who have set up their businesses here as the neighbouhood has become Krakow’s bohemian quarter. Visitors can now spend several hours happily browsing the shops along Ulica Jozefa. Cheder Café offers Middle Eastern snacks and is decorated in a contemporary style that is unmistakably Jewish in character and feels like a relaxed library.

Eataway is so much more than just dinner. Started in Kraków but quickly spreading to other cities, countries, and even continents, the creative concept involves local people cooking for guests in their homes. Interested parties simply book and pay in advance via the Eataway website, then receive directions to their dinner with their confirmation email. Meals vary greatly, so it’s up to you to browse the options and choose one that suits your needs, whether that’s pierogi the way your grandmother used to make them, or a sophisticated feast made by an aspiring chef in their own kitchen. Offerings also go beyond Polish food, as Eataway’s network of cooks includes expats like Mira from Korea and Sheuli from India, who prepare their national specialties extremely well. Besides the fact that the food is always delicious and authentic, it’s very reasonably priced—you can typically enjoy a three-course meal for around 50 to 130 Polish zlotys. Above all, you’ll meet interesting people and get a glimpse of real, local life. Eataway’s creator, Marta, remains at the heart of the community, serving “happy meals” from her home in Kraków.

As the number of bars in Krakow has gradually increased, the spots from which to enjoy a sunset drink have also expanded. One of the most glamorous spots is the Sky Bar on the roof of the Hotel Stary, overlooking the main square. Order a cocktail or a decadent homemade dessert and watch as the bustle of the city plays out below to the occasional tune of the unfinished bugler.

The Summer Restaurant in the Hotel Stary offers top quality food with a bird’s eye view over the market square (just be sure to ask for a table with an OId Town view).

As its fish-and-sack-of-flour logo suggests, Farina serves fresh seafood and homemade pasta, prepared with seasonal ingredients to the very highest standards. In addition to Mediterranean fare, chef Monika Turasiewicz also offers a small selection of traditional Polish dishes—her pierogi ruskie are among the best in town—and a special seafood menu Thursday through Sunday. No matter what you order, your meal will start with the restaurant’s signature appetizer of truffle-and-mushroom pâté, served with scrumptious little rolls that are baked in-house. Farina also has a solid selection of wines, plus a sommelier to recommend the ideal pairing.

After a night of barhopping, it’s only natural to develop an appetite. Visit Plac Nowy in Kazimierz for zapiekanki, a Polish pizza-style snack of baked bread with a topping of tomato sauce, cheese, ham, and garlic sauce. There are a few stalls in Plac Nowy serving zapiekanki late into the night, but only Endzior has a constant line of loyal customers. Another Krakow institution is the sausage stand outside Plac Targowy where men in white coats serve an eager line of customers with delicious sausages smoked over their wood-burning stove and delivered in a bread roll with mustard. This makeshift stall has been on this spot every day between 10:00 p.m. and 3:00 a.m. for longer than most of their customers care to remember.