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The state’s restrictions on the sale of sunscreens containing the toxic chemicals oxybenzone and octinoxate won’t take effect until January of 2021, but change is already afoot.

Legendary Hawaiian designer Sig Zane was commissioned to give the airline’s threads a modern makeover with traditional roots.

With Hawaii leading the charge, many destinations are moving to ban reef-damaging sunscreens. Here’s the why, where, and what of the matter—plus some handy tips for picking your own eco-friendly sunscreen.

Overview

The Big Island is a sunny destination with plenty to offer for the modern gay traveler. These are the area’s best LGBTQ-friendly spots.

For those wanting an active adventure on the water, Captain Alan’s Boat Charters offers snorkeling as well as clothing-optional boat trips. Their Snorkel and Beach excursion allows you to experience four hours of snorkeling and swimming around St. Maarten, Pinel Island, and the uninhabited Tintamarren while riding in one of their 30- to 38-foot off-shore power boats. Enjoy a swim with tropical fish and sea turtles, and then head back onto the boat for snacks, an open bar, and music. Captain Alan’s Boat Charters also offers a 6-hour adventure, trips to nearby Anguilla and St. Barth’s, and a clothing-optional nude cruise.

If the view means everything when you select a place to stay, this charming B&B in Rockport just might be calling your name. Every room has the ocean at its window and the rolling waves can lull you to sleep at night. Situated on a quiet street, you’ll find a good spot for a morning walk or run and the wonderful porch is a great spot to read or start out your evening cocktail hour.

This lovely, nostalgic shop has been selling traditional Hawai‘ian designs—bright and botanically themed—alongside contemporary creations by owner Michael John Gillan for decades. The classic buy is a kapaeke (an heirloom quilted handbag), but you can pick up everything from USB-stick holders to kits that teach the craft. The oldest retail quilt company in Hawai‘i, it has catered to local royalty, as well as Hollywood stars, and pioneered the islands’ fabric-art tradition in Japan. Its instructors offer lessons and demonstrations at Waikiki’s Beach Walk every Tuesday from 10 a.m. to noon, as well as at the Big Island’s Queens’ Marketplace every Sunday from 1–3 p.m.

The ire of Mount Kilauea reforges the world before visitors’ eyes. Nicknamed “the World’s Only Drive-In Volcano,” it’s produced serious lava every day since 1983 with no signs of stopping. Pele—the fire goddess who lives here, according to Hawaiian lore—is on a roll. Occasionally the lava flows spill into the sea, releasing stunning plumes of steam. Don’t miss the petroglyphs, lava tube, lush rain forest, and more than 150 miles of trail, including the four-mile Kilauea Iki loop. The drive here from Kona or Kohala can take two and a half hours, a bit of a long day, so consider reserving accommodations in the town of Volcano. You’ll have plenty of time to explore this otherworldly landscape, and even see the lava glowing in the dark!

Local-style comfort food gets the portions it deserves here, filling the soul and the stomach. Massive pancakes, kalua pork hash, and an all-day Big Island Breakfast Menu are the main draws. Seafood eaters shouldn’t miss the poke bowl (pronounced POH-keh): cubed raw fish seasoned any way you wish.

Captain Dave’s ocean safaris offer visitors a different way to see Laguna. Departing from Dana Point, the cruises take place on a high-tech, high-speed catamaran equipped with underwater viewing pods so guests can see marine life up close. The boat also features three tram nets on the bow, offering prime views of everything from blue, humpback, and fin whales to orcas, dolphins, and even great white sharks. Cruises are limited to 49 people so everyone gets a front-row seat—plus Mrs. Captain Dave’s legendary triple fudge brownies that she bakes fresh for every trip.

Hawaii Sea Spirits is behind Ocean Organic Vodka, widely recognized for its turquoise bottle inspired by the 14th-century Japanese glass fishing net floats that used to wash ashore in Maui in abundance. At the company’s distillery on the slopes of Haleakala, entrepreneur Shay Smith desalinates deep-ocean mineral water from off the Kona Coast of Hawaii, then adds the bounty of his 80-acre organic farm, where he and his team cultivate more than 30 varieties of Polynesian sugarcane without the use of GMOs, herbicides, or pesticides. Discover the intricacies of his harvesting and distilling process on a farm tour, which takes place seven days a week, then hit the gift shop and stock up on vodka to take home.

From October to February, sperm whales, humpback whales, and pilot whales make their way from the cold Atlantic to the warm waters of St. Lucia to breed and mate. Whale-watching tours leave from Castries and some of the other towns on the west coast and sail north to south to spot the whales, breaching and spouting, from a safe distance. Over the last few years, sperm and pilot whales have more frequently been spotted than humpbacks. It’s not unusual to see schools of spinner and bottlenose dolphins along the journey. Some whale-watching trips offer lunch as well as a chance to snorkel and swim, so shop around for the excursion you want.

A clifftop eco-hotel surrounded by 50 barely touched acres on the bucolic North Kohala coast, Hawaii Island Retreat feels as far away as it gets. There are no TVs in the guest rooms, no air-con, and Wi-Fi only in certain spots. Solar and wind power provide all the electricity, while much of the fruit and vegetables are grown right on the property. Resident goats and bees supply the cheese and honey. The inn has 20 simply-furnished bedrooms in the main house, overlooking groves of cedar and pine trees, plus seven yurts a stone’s throw away, so it’s possible—likely even—that a guest might spend days here and rarely see another soul. The owners, a local spa therapist and natural healer and her physician husband, opened the property in 2009 with the express purpose of creating a wellness-focused retreat, which is why guests can sign up for classes in yoga, tai chi, and meditation, as well as facials and massages. Outdoor massage tables, placed under a tent, overlook a deep green valley. There’s also a mediation rock. So health-minded is this little retreat that it’s become a popular spot for guests recovering from serious illness or simply in search of a detox. Various packages have a wellness or spiritual theme.

The recently merged airlines are getting into the loyalty game with a choose-your-own-adventure concept called Atmos Rewards. Experts weigh in on how to make the most of the new points scheme.