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No matter what the season, it’s worthwhile to wander through the exquisite Retiro Park when you’re in Madrid. Here you can find a tranquil escape from crowded streets and museums. The unrivaled architecture of Madrid is echoed here in the wonderful monuments, statues, and buildings. Be sure to visit the gorgeous Crystal Palace (Palacio de Cristal), originally a greenhouse and now used for art exhibitions. Look for the beautiful black swans in the lake.

The Museum of Ham, Museo del Jamon has a hold on the heart of Madrid. The excellent prices, large spaces, and convenient hours of operation mean that the Museo is nearly always packed after working hours. Feel like a local, and push your way to the bar to order a caña (small beer) and tapa. While the chain’s food is nothing out of the ordinary, it’s the feeling of being one with the locals that makes a visit to the museum fun. Image courtesy of Museo del Jamon.

If you’re in Madrid and in the mood for tapas, you might not know exactly where to go or what to taste. The Mercado San Miguel (metro Sol) takes away all that decision-making by providing you with a taste experience all under one roof. The old, derelict market was renovated just a few years ago and turned into an upmarket culinary emporium of sorts. It has more than 30 food stalls, each selling something different. My favorite is the bellota ham sold at Carrasco, but there is plenty more. You can sample sherries and Rioja wines at the wine bar, or do as Spaniards do and pick away at tapas as you make your way through the market. I highly recommend the croquettes, or croquetas, in one of the outside alleys: they have ham, chicken, shrimp, cheese and a variety of others. The more standard tapas area easy to find, like tortilla, and seafood is beautifully laid out for you to pick and choose. Right in the middle is my top-rated tapa place. I couldn’t find a name for it but it’s the largest counter, shaped like a U, and has everything from potatoes aioli to steamed razor clams, with everything in-between.

It’s not that newer is necessarily better—Antonio Obrador, the hotelier and designer of famously luxurious retreats like Mallorca’s Cap Rocat, would hardly choose a neoclassical, turn-of-the-century palacio for his latest project, were that the case—but when a hotel gets the kind of buzz that the Urso Hotel & Spa got when it opened in the fall of 2014, there’s usually a reason.

In the hip, up-and-coming Salesas neighborhood, across the street from the recently reopened (and equally lively) Barceló food market, Madrid’s first five-star boutique hotel looks, from the outside, like many grandes dames: ornate, decadent, and just a bit over-the-top. Inside is another story; while many of the original details (hand-painted azulejo tiles, grand marble staircase, stained-glass windows, windowed wooden elevator) have been painstakingly restored with the help of local craftsmen, the style is undeniably contemporary, with even a hint of Scandinavian-inspired minimalism to offset the pull of the antique. This devotion to design alone would have merited the aforementioned buzz, but Obrador and his team didn’t stop there, throwing in one of Madrid’s most innovative restaurants, most soothing spas, most understatedly cool bars, and, of course, the superlative service required of any five-star stay.

Life reflects art? The Reina Sofia museum in Madrid is home to Picasso’s famous Guernica, and many works by other Spanish artists, including Miro and Dali. A fabulous place to discover the art, artists, and ideas of the 20th century.

Madrid born and bred, DiverXO’s owner David Muñoz, has taken the food scene by storm. His schooling in Asian cuisine melds with his Spanish roots and has given birth to fusion food from the artist’s soul. It’s not uncommon to see smoked sardines lay next to young coconut on the same platter, bringing two culinary worlds together. Each dining experience starts with a letter of intention, a poem of sorts, from Muñoz stating his intention behind preparation of your meal -- and then you eat the menu itself as a fanciful starter! It’s best to get a reservation ASAP, with three Michelin stars, DiverXO is almost always booked!

Madrid’s largest park, named after King Juan Carlos I, is a short metro ride from downtown, but from the moment you leave the station you feel as though you’ve been transported to a faraway land of fairy tales. Giant sculptures decorate the massive grounds, with dedications to Galileo, victims of the Holocaust, and world peace, respectively. If the weather is fair, there is a free train which offers rides every hour on the hour around the entire park—the only way you can see the whole place in a day!

“A boutique that sells Mideast-chic clothing and home décor. The shop has a modern design sensibility, pure and simple, but it’s inspired by the traditional shapes, techniques, and fabrics of the region.” 56 Madrid St., 961/1-444-141.” —Kamal Mouzawak This story appeared in the March/April 2011 issue.

Renowned chef Paco Roncero re-interprets everyday Spanish food without crossing the line into pretentiousness at Estado Puro; here, flavor matters more than presentation and dishes are perfectly portioned. Patatas bravas, fried potatoes spiked with red pepper, is perhaps the most typical bar snack in Spain however Estado Puro has successfully re-interpreted the ubiquitous dish. Using hollowed, roasted baby-potatoes filled with spicy sauce it’s a subtly new take on a Spanish classic. If you’re staying for a snack or meal try the chipirones, cod-fritters, and creative mojitos too. The restaurant is also uniquely designed. Under the glass-topped bar you’ll notice endless rows of tiny flamenco dancer dolls while above you’ll see undulating rows of peinetas—the traditional decorative comb used by Spanish women to hold their flowing mantillas, veils, in place. In Madrid the dinner begins late, so if you eat before nine in the evening you’ll feel as if you have the place to yourself. There are also two Estado Puro restaurants; one across from The Prado and another around the corner from the Plaza Santa Ana (one of Madrid’s liveliest squares at night).

Though toma means “take it” in Spanish, this intimate cafe offers far more than takeaway service. Toma’s staff are able to interact with customers while showing off their impressive coffee knowledge (as well as English language prowess). Homemade pastries, cookies, and cakes are available, with some gluten-free options. The current consensus around town is that Toma Café has the best staff, bean sourcing, and know-how on pulling a proper shot. Best coffee in a city of coffee drinkers is a mighty statement, but I’ll stand behind it.

Easy to find and hard to leave, Ramses is modern but ultra comfortable. They managed to create a completely differente atmosphere in each room—from romantic dining to a bubbly champagne bar—but the outdoor lounge was my favorite. When traveling I typically won’t visit a place twice but, while sipping sangria outside surrounded by locals, I knew I’d come back to Ramses.

What is more romantic than an intricate and well-used Spanish fan? Fans are a highly personal item, and like perfume, one should only use the best they can find (or so my mother always said). For the royal minded there is only one choice, Casa de Diego. Founded in 1858, this a business steeped in international approval, and the generations have been privileged to create masterpiece shawls, umbrellas, and of course fans for royal families all over the world. Proudly facing the Puerta del Sol is the window display of fans, giving only a glimmer into the magic on the other side of the doors. Right outside is the hustle and bustle of city center, but inside the shop you are transported to a haven of beauty. Take home a piece of Spanish tradition with you, and smile every time you fan yourself, remembering Madrid.

Eat dinner like a conquistador at Restaurante Sobrino de Botin. The combination of its central location off Plaza Mayor and its claim to be the “Oldest Restaurant in the World” makes it charming and fun for family and friends. Make sure to put in a reservation in advance and order a traditional dish. I particularly enjoyed the incredibly thin jamon because it was light and not oversalted.

Designed by 19 of the world’s top architecture and design firms (three of which have already won the Pritzker Prize), the Hotel Silken Puerta América Madrid may be the world’s ultimate design hotel. A colorful, towering ode to the best of modern design, the hotel is unlike anywhere else, with each distinctive floor imagined by a different creative, including the likes of Zaha Hadid (her vision is an undulating space-age den of all-black or all-white rooms and smooth fiberglass surfaces) and Jean Nouvel (his gradient exterior is just the tip of a vibrant, imaginative iceberg). John Pawson imagined the Zen-like, all-wood lobby, while architect Teresa Sapey created what may be the world’s only whimsical, design-conscious parking garage, a brightly colored and well-lit space inspired by Paul Éluard’s poem Freedom, which adorns the building’s facade.

Despite each floor’s unique and avant-garde aesthetic, the Hoteles Silken group refused to compromise on luxury, guaranteeing top-notch service and every modern amenity one would expect from a five-star hotel. And don’t forget the acclaimed restaurant, two trendy bars (one on the rooftop, with postcard-worthy views), and the indoor rooftop pool.

Cheese connoisseurs, welcome to heaven. Casa Gonzalez has been serving up the widest selection of queso (cheese) with an authentic flair for years. The wine list does not disappoint and somehow the service is always smiling, even when the bar is packed. If you’re not a cheese lover, fret not, there is an assortment of Iberico meats on offer, tapas, and even their olive oil toast is delicious. Expect it to be busy on weekends, as the central location makes it a prime hangout for many Madrileños.