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Writer Tom Downey tracks the sources of surprising culinary innovations in Australia’s second city.

Inside the city’s most innovative restaurants, maverick chefs are defining modern Czech cuisine.

Croatia’s sixth-largest island—once known as Melaina Korkyra (Black Korkyra) because its vast oak forests reminded Greek settlers of Corfu—is covered in pine trees, olive groves, and vineyards. Korčula Old Town is the island’s treasured highlight and a UNESCO World Heritage Site candidate. Its stone architecture and historic ambiance reflect almost four centuries of Venetian rule, with towered gates, lion statues, magnificent palazzos, and elaborate stonework peppering the charming streets. Venturing out of the Old Town, you will encounter historic villages, picturesque bays, waterfront promenades, and welcoming locals. Korčula is one of the last places on earth where knightly games like the Moreška dances are still regularly performed and where medieval fraternities still keep up their centuries-old traditions. The island truly is a treasure trove of history, nature and serenity.

Long lunches on sun-dappled terraces, wine tastings in rolling vineyards, dinners created around the freshest possible fish: The Dalmation Coast is blessed with a bounty of local products – peppery olive oil, Istrian ham, artisan cheeses, and of course the seafood – and the perfect setting to enjoy them in.

The southern city of Dubrovnik in Croatia is the most visited city in the country, and with good reason. As one of the last remaining walled towns in the world, a walk through town is a walk through time and along with the views and weather, Dubrovnik is truly an amazing travel destination.

Wine is an integral part of life on the Dalmatian Coast, a region with many indigenous varietals; a visit to Dubrovnik shouldn’t go by without a glass of local wine. Tucked away on Palmotićeva Street off the main Stradun, D’Vino offers cozy interiors as well as atmospheric seating at tables set on the narrow thoroughfare outside. Try a glass of something new from the impressive selection of local producers—the knowledgeable staff can help guide you in choosing one. D’Vino features several tasting experiences that highlight the region’s star wines: the Konavle Valley’s refreshing Malvazija, potent Plavac Mali reds from the Pelješac Peninsula, and Korčula Island’s fruity Pošip whites. Pair the wines with a platter of prosciutto and Croatian cheeses for a wonderful welcome to Dubrovnik and its wine region.

A tribute to the zinfandel grape, which originated in Croatia, this restaurant and bar features a zin-centric wine list but also showcases regional favorites like Plavac and Dingač. Of its 100 wines, it offers about 30 by the glass, encouraging guests to taste their way through Croatia’s wine heritage. Pair your drinks with one of the restaurant’s three-tiered platters, which come loaded with Dalmatian bites, then settle in on the terrace for some live music. If you’re hungry for a full meal, opt instead for the five-course “Taste of Dalmatia” menu, which includes everything from seared Adriatic tuna and homemade oxtail ravioli to calamari stuffed with ricotta and sun-dried tomatoes. Come morning, Zinfandel also serves breakfast, which diners can pair with champagne or fig-flavored travarica, a local herb grappa.

Hidden away in the hamlet of Velika Plana inside the Velebit Mountain Biosphere Reserve, this ranch retreat is the perfect place to discover Croatia’s rugged Lika region. Either book a stay in one of the units (which range from teepees and river tents to mudhouse-style casitas and en-suite rooms with private porches) or pop in for the day to take advantage of the many activities on offer. The ranch specializes in horseback riding—guests can enjoy lessons, two-hour trots, or day-long rides that roam the range—but also features canoe expeditions, archery, and Jeep rides through the wilderness. For those who choose to spend the night, the spa compound has a pool, a Siberian cedar hot tub, space for yoga, and an outdoor treatment room.

A contemporary take on a classic 1970s Adriatic resort, Hotel Lone is Croatia’s first and only member of the Design Hotels network. The gleaming-white, Y-shaped building may sit amid the forests of Zlatni Rt Park (a 10-minute seafront stroll from the Old Town of Rovinj), but its five-story lobby forgoes nature for flowing golden fabrics, rich murals, and a suspended steel sculpture. The Scandinavian-style accommodations are decidedly more minimalist, with lots of wood and natural light aplenty—plus plunge pools on park-facing terraces in the 16 Jazz rooms. Facilities include an 18,300-square-foot spa with an indoor pool, eight treatment rooms, and a unisex sauna complex, as well as the stellar ResoLution Signature Restaurant.

A stone’s throw from downtown Split, Marjan is a hilltop park about the same size as New York City’s Central Park. Known as “the lungs of the city,” it’s the ideal urban escape, offering places to run, bike, swim, and even rock-climb. A serene path through fragrant pine forests leads up to Telegrin Peak, revealing charming chapels and sweeping sea views. Along the park’s waterfront, there are also several popular beaches, Kašjuni Cove being the favorite.

In a swift four minutes, the Dubrovnik cable car will deliver you to the top of Mount Srdi for awe-inspiring views of the Old Town and Elaphite Islands. On clear days, you can even see Italy far out on the horizon. Next to the cable-car station is Napoleon’s Fort Royal, an immense stone fortress that played a strategic role in the 1992 Siege of Dubrovnik during the Croatian War of Independence. Today, the fort houses the Museum of Contemporary History, which showcases artifacts from the Dubrovnik battlefields as well as a BBC film that vividly illustrates the events of 1991 and 1992.

A UNESCO World Heritage site, this 1,700-year-old palace sits on the Adriatic seafront, serving as the focal point of Split. It was built by the Roman emperor Diocletian as a seaside retirement home and has served as a refuge for many a conqueror over the centuries. Today, some 2,000 locals reside within the compound’s thick walls, making it a lively urban quarter. Getting lost in the labyrinth of surrounding streets is the best way to explore downtown Split—as you meander around, you’ll stumble across lively cafés and shops tucked into millennia-old buildings. Be sure to check out the Peristil, an imperial square framed by two colonnades, where Diocletian used to address the public. Towering above the square is Split’s major landmark—a 187-foot-tall belfry that you can climb for panoramic views of town.

Voted Croatia’s best restaurant several years in a row, Pelegrini is reason enough to visit Šibenik. The talented owner and chef Rudi Štefan continues to raise the bar at this gorgeous spot, which is housed in an ancient palace. In nice weather, book a table on the small terrace with sea views. Once seated, decide how many courses you want—there’s a minimum of three at lunch and five at dinner—then sit back and let the culinary adventure begin. Attentive waiters will bring out beautifully plated dishes celebrating regional flavors with a global spin. Think amberjack tataki, monkfish tripe, beef-cheek pasta, and tongue cubes with breaded sage, all paired with top-notch local wines.

A former 18th-century bishop’s palace in Korčula Old Town, this Relais & Châteaux property has been meticulously restored into an all-suite luxury hotel. Each of the five rooms is decorated along a different theme inspired by the Silk Road and the explorer Marco Polo, who is rumored to have been born on Korčula. The two-bedroom China Suite features low-slung furniture, red pillows, and a scene-stealer of a terrace with views across the town and coastline, while the one-bedroom Arabia Suite includes an all-white color scheme and intricately carved wood screens.

The hotel’s LD Spa specializes in Thai and Ayurvedic treatments, and the restaurant serves fresh, local seafood on a long terrace above the Old Town wall. The restaurant also produces three different olive oils from the groves around Korčula, and works with local partners to serve wines made from indigenous grapes like grk and pošip.

As the daughter of one of Croatia’s most legendary chefs, Ivana Gamulin felt inspired to follow in her late father’s footsteps and open a restaurant. The result is Villa Spiza, a countertop spot within the palace walls, where she and her sister serve up Dalmatian soul food made with fresh, local ingredients. The menu changes daily depending on what’s available at the market but always features regional specialties like seafood risotto, fried calamari, and just-caught fish. For its comforting fare and low-key vibe, the restaurant is beloved by everyone from bohemians and backpackers to tried-and-true locals—which is always a good sign when searching for somewhere to eat. Service is friendly, but come prepared to wait—Villa Spiza doesn’t do fast food.