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Understanding the Sky

Volunteering with Hands Up Holidays, Opuwo, Namibia

Finding a charming alpine town snug at the base of Whistler and Blackcomb mountains may make skiers, hikers, and lovers of beauty feel like they’re having a fever dream, but the dream is real. Whether you come in winter for the world-class downhill skiing and snowboarding, or in summer for mountain biking, hiking, gallery-hopping, and long evenings spent on restaurant decks, you’ve found Whistler Village, one of the jewels of British Columbia.

Traveling a little differently this time, we ventured out to explore winter and food in Hokkaido. While most people go to ski and play in the snow, we went to take our first snowboard lessons, tried snowmobiling for the first time and threw snowballs at each other, of course :-) And while most people spend more time on the attractions, our attractions focused on the spectacular food that Hokkaido is so popular known for.

Located along the eastern border of the four-million-acre Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, the island’s first national park mixes swamp gums, stringybarks, and massive tree ferns with snow gums and deciduous beech trees at higher elevations. Depending on the season, you might walk the suspension bridge to the three-tier stunner Russell Falls or take the Pandani Grove walk around Lake Dobson—keep your eyes peeled for platypus. In winter, skiers, snowboarders, and backcountry trekkers can explore the lakes and glacial terrain of the Tarn Shelf. In autumn, the same area blazes red and orange on hikes to the Twilight Tarn Hut, an unofficial ski museum. Five other huts offer basic accommodation year-round at 3,280 feet.

Whistler Blackcomb receives lots of press about its big-mountain features, but the resort offers plenty of terrain for every family member and skill level. The Whistler Blackcomb Snow School, among the best in North America, is great for both seasoned skiers and kids as young as toddlers. Even tweens and teens can enjoy small-group lessons, which offer equal parts socializing and instruction in the terrain parks and beyond. Welcome on the Whistler and Peak 2 Peak gondolas, non-skiers will have the village to themselves during the day. When back with their group, they can hang at one of the more than 25 on-mountain restaurants.

Austrian culture is deeply rooted in skiing and Skicircus is its crowning achievement. Spread over Saalbach-Hinterglemm and Leogang, the winter sports area features nearly 170 miles of piste terrain and is extremely popular with both skiers and snowboarders. Guests can look forward to 70 cableways and lifts, more than 60 cozy ski huts, numerous snow parks, floodlit slopes, and toboggan runs. For those not staying at the resort, the Salzburg Snow Shuttle provides transportation from the city to the slopes.

The Peak 2 Peak Gondola that connects Whistler and Blackcomb mountains was considered a glitzy and expensive PR move when it opened in 2007. Today the 1.9-mile span, the longest unsupported span in the world, ferries hikers, bikers, and of course, skiers and snowboarders to the slopes they seek. Best of all, the Peak 2 Peak provides access to alpine wilderness usually reserved exclusively for the athletically inclined. (This is the adventure I take my 83-year-old mother on in Whistler, and she is blown away, as is her 8-year-old grandson.) Flying through the air, 1,431 feet up with hardly a support tower in sight, is a thrill. The 11-minute ride soars above snow walls, wildflower meadows, Fitzsimmons Creek, and several trails down, around, and behind the Whistler peaks.

Most people travel to Canada in the winter to ski the famous big resorts like Whistler and Lake Louise. But 20 minutes from downtown Banff is a little “hill"—as the Canadians like to call their mountains—called Sunshine Village. The resort, located on the continental divide of the Canadian Rockies, spans more than 3,300 acres and has three mountains to explore. I visited in mid-March (locals say March conditions are often best) and we had perfect powder. The resort stays open through late May for those looking to extend their ski season. The ski-in, ski-out Sunshine Mountain Lodge is a perfect base for those who want to get first chair in the morning. Rooms have great views of the surrounding mountains and loft-style rooms with Murphy beds are perfect for couples or families. I liked the lodge’s unique offerings such as hot tub bingo night and new yoga and ski retreats. The mountain has terrain for all levels. Serious skiers and riders will want to go off-piste and experience Delirium Dive. A check-in gate ensures skiers and riders are equipped with a beacon and safety gear before they tackle the Dive. On Lookout Mountain, you’re likely to find powder stashes on some of the steep tree runs such as Little Angel, and Horot’s Revenge. And don’t miss the frozen waterfall on the way down the Waterfall run off the Wawa chair.

You know summer is here when people are renting Stand Up Paddleboards to float down Stillwater. About 3 miles up Independence Pass there is an area were the river meanders through the North Star Preserve in fairly tame waters. There are many methods to get you down the river, Kayaks, Canoes, Inner tube, but a new favorite is the Stand Up Paddleboard. You can rent them from a few local shops, like Up Snowboard Rentals and when they ask you if you need booties I recommend that your answer is yes. Although in theory you are floating above the water there are times when your feet dip into the very cold, fresh snowmelt water and you can get very chilly. Shuttle the cars and leave one at the take out point then drive up to the drop in near Wildwood. Bring a few beverages for the nice and relaxing float while the river snakes around corners. Near the end there is “the Beach”. This is accessible other ways and you don’t have to float the river but it is always fun to stop and hang out with other river floaters. Play Frisbee or beach badminton and pretend you are on a beach somewhere tropical.

On our way from Sapporo to Lake Toya in Hokkaido, Japan, what emerged from the road ahead was this beautiful snow-capped mountain that looks very much like the famous majestic Mt. Fuji (highest mountain in Japan). And as we jokingly called out Mt. Fuji to the kids, our local guide overheard us said we were actually right. Well, half right! This mountain is quite famous and is the Mt. Fuji of Hokkaido, and is nicknamed Ezo Mt. Fuji. Ezo is the old name of Hokkaido, the island on the northern end of Japan. Ezo Mt. Fuji is located in the area of Shiribeshi, the southwestern part of Hokkaido, where its main attraction is its amazing natural scenery. The area consists of volcanoes, mountain ranges, valleys, rivers, amazing lakes, ponds and a wealth of natural wildlife. Visitors to the area do skiing, snowboarding, other snow activities, rafting, and of course the traditional Japanese hot spring (onsen). In the summer, there are a lot of national park activities, farming, jam making, enjoying the seafood and fresh produce. The official name of this mountain though is called Mt. Yotei and it’s approx ~1,900 meters high, compared to the ~3,700 meter Mt. Fuji.

One of the best things about Calgary is the winter playground in the center of town. Canada Olympic Park, on the western edge of the city, features a ski hill, snowboard park, cross-country trails, an Olympic luge track, Canada’s Sports Hall of Fame, and a glass elevator that takes you to the 1988 Winter Olympic’s biggest ski jump, as well as skating facilities and restaurants. It also offers private and group lessons, so you can brush up on your sport where World Cup and Olympic athletes train. Plan a day to hit the slopes, or forget the skis and come explore the park’s less strenuous attractions that celebrate winter.

At the Big White Ski Resort there is more to do than ski and snowboard which is especially useful to know when you’re not a skiing Canadian like myself. Instead of hitting the slopes there are snowshoe excursions, ice wall climbing, sledding with inflatable tubes, ice skating, sleigh rides, dog sledding, and, even more importantly, delicious restaurants and bars full of beer and locally produced wine.

Just as Rome has the Colosseum and Paris the Eiffel Tower, so Switzerland has the Matterhorn. Located above Zermatt, this 48,195-foot wonder attracts hordes of visitors, eager to see the morning sunlight beam off its four faces, ski its neighboring mountains, or even attempt to climb the beast itself. The Matterhorn, however, is not for the faint-hearted and has claimed the lives of more than 500 people since it was first scaled in 1865—an average of 12 per year. It’s also been replicated at Disneyland in California as a rollercoaster.