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Even if it weren’t arguably the grandest hotel in all of Prague, you’re simply not going to find a more centrally located address than the five-star Four Seasons. At the foot of the Charles Bridge in medieval Old Town—with views across the Vltava to Prague Castle in one direction and over the Jewish Quarter and Rudolfinum Concert Hall in the other—the 157-room property is, in fact, three distinct historic buildings—one Baroque circa 1568, another Neoclassical from 1827, and the last an 1883 Neo-Renaissance edifice—tied together by a contemporary main building built in 2001. Given a sumptuous makeover by renowned French designer Pierre-Yves Rochon in 2012, the rooms and public spaces feel at once stylishly modern and timelessly refined. Though the neighborhood’s attractions beckon, don’t miss a chance to dine at CottoCrudo, the riverside Mediterranean restaurant and bar that is considered one of the city’s best.

What do you get when you mix a little Don Draper, a bit of Andy Warhol, a smidge of The Jetsons, and a touch of PeeWee’s Playhouse? The vision of two local architects, the cheerful Vintage Design Hotel Sax is a paean to post-war optimism in the Malá Strana neighborhood, where each of the 23 affordable accommodations are individually decorated with restored vintage furniture and artwork, colorful geometric wallpapers, and retro pieces. Rooms aren’t particularly spacious but are comfortable nonetheless and include amenities like smart TVs, free WiFi, and air conditioning. There isn’t an on-site restaurant, but the lobby bar sells salads and sandwiches throughout the day, and a space off the lobby stocks free coffee and tea, as well as wines and soft drinks for purchase. The complimentary breakfast, however, is served buffet style (you can pay to order à la carte items) and can be enjoyed from the hotel’s fourth-floor terrace overlooking Prague Castle and the Petřín Lookout Tower.

After Vltava River floods brought great devastation to this gritty neighborhood and old port, a great change and rebirth began, and new businesses, stores and restaurants began moving in to old factory spaces and art nouveau buildings near the main square and church. Now Karlin is a foodie hotspot and a gentrifying neighborhood. Located across the river from Holešovice, to the east of the historic Old Town, Karlin is home to Veltlin wine bar, which focuses on natural wines from the former Austro-Hungarian Empire; Tea Mountain, a gorgeous tea room; Můj Šálek Coffee; and Eska, a restaurant-bakery serving neo-Nordic-inspired Czech cuisine in a modern industrial setting.

On Karlin’s impossible to pronounce Krizikova street (where the neighborhood’s foodie scene is most visible), this inviting wine bar was among the venues to solidify the foodie scene here. Led by oenophile and poet Bogdan Trojak, Veltlin offers natural wines (what they prefer to call authentic wines) from the former Austro-Hungarian empire with a diversity of blends from the Czech Republic’s Moravian and Bohemian regions to Croatia and Austria. You can check the menu online to see the day’s open bottles on offer. A local illustrator is behind the whimsical map of the former empire adorning one wall.

Prague’s riverside along the Vltava are definitely been flowing in the right direction. The top spot is Naplavka near the Výton tram stop where on weekends during the warmer months the embankment is filled with people soaking up the laid back atmosphere and exceptional riverside view. Sip a local pilsner at the sidewalk cafes and grab dinner on one of the floating barge restaurants, plus there’s often live music and other perfomers. Bajkazyl is a bar and bike shop that also puts on films, concerts, dance parties, and spontaneous events. Check out the (A)void floating gallery and bar, and from October through April, there’s a floating sauna where you can sweat it out with 15 other people. Naplavka is also home to one of Prague’s best farmers’ market.

Read articles from this print issue of Afar Magazine.

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