Search results for

A 15-minute walk from Langkawi’s beaches, the Temple Tree resort redefines “home-stay.” Guests sleep in authentic Malaysian heritage houses—including a century-old Chinese farmhouse, a colonial-style bungalow, and a 1940s-era Malay home—that were disassembled at their original sites and rebuilt on the hotel grounds. Now updated with modern amenities, the structures are appointed with local antiques such as money boxes and birdcages. Don’t miss the resort’s lagoon or its eponymous Chinese temple, built around a tree tied with colored ribbons. As a feel-good bonus, some profits from the hotel benefit owner Narelle McMurtrie’s animal rescue organization.

This appeared in the March/April 2010 issue.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

Usually when a restaurant tries to offer two distinct menus, they fail miserably. Not at fatCUPID. The beefburger smothered in fried egg and the lemon butter snapper are just as tasty as the nyonya laksa or the sambal udang, with their juicy prawns. You can eat here and satisfy both your urge to eat local and your desire for home comfort food. The restaurant itself feels distinctly Malaysian, but also fresh and new. The restaurant is only a year old; I hope they keep it exactly the way it is. Delicious.

There’s a reason this humble Indian-Malaysian restaurant is consistently packed: It serves mouthwatering curries, naan, dosa, biryanis and murtabak (a stuffed, panfried bread) at very reasonable prices. The extensive menu can be overwhelming, but you can’t go wrong with garlic naan with dal, tandoori chicken and an invigorating freshly squeezed juice.

Located in the heart of Orlando’s Little Vietnam district, this casual eatery does Pan-Asian cuisine perfectly, with a spread of affordable, piping-hot dishes inspired by hawker-style street food. It’s hardly a new concept in a city known for great Asian restaurants, but Mamak does it exceptionally well with small plates like beef bulgogi, golden roti canai bread, Indonesian nasi goreng, and a spectacular version of Malaysian char kway teow noodles. Come with a group so you can order a little bit of everything—it’s the kind of place where sharing just two dishes is nothing short of sin.

Located on the international culinary corridor that is Buford Highway, Food Terminal brings the flavors of a Malaysian food market to Atlanta. Here, Amy Wong and Howie Ewe (who also own Sweet Hut Bakery and Café and Top Spice, a Thai and Malaysian chain) cook family recipes, drawing from memories of their homeland. Grab a seat in the modern space and choose from a menu of numbered noodle and rice dishes. The Grandma Wonton BBQ Pork Noodles—served with fried pork wontons, tender pork belly, egg noodles, bok choy, and a fried egg—are a favorite, but the Hainanese chicken and roti canai are also popular.

Willis Tower—originally known as the Sears Tower—was the world’s tallest building for 23 years until it was unseated in 1996 by the Petronas Twin Towers in Kuala Lumpur. The 110-story skyscraper is still mighty impressive. Its “bundled tube” design by architectural firm Skidmore, Owings & Merrill was originally inspired by a handful of cigarettes and the innovative bundling changed the construction of supertall, wind-resistant buildings thereafter. The tower’s height is even more thrilling when measured from the 103rd-floor windows of the Skydeck observatory and the Ledge, a glass-enclosed box which juts more than four feet out from the side of the building so that visitors can (gingerly) walk out and stand 1,353 feet above the street.

Muntri Mews in Penang is my kind of hotel. Formerly an old mews house, its owners have fitted it out with clean, comfortable rooms that retain the charm of their days as stables (think romantic mosquito nets and wooden beam architectural details). The hotel is small and the service is personal and friendly. Breakfast on the hotel’s patio in the heart of historic Georgetown is the perfect way to start a day of meandering through the back streets of this historic, character-filled foodie heaven.

When on Langkawi, an island with a thriving fishing community, it’s always a good idea to eat some fresh fish. While it may not seem intuitive to order Japanese food in Malaysia, you won’t be disappointed at Unkaizan. Order exclusively off the “black board” where they post their daily specials and signature dishes.

Serene. That’s how I would describe the pool at the Lone Pine Hotel in Penang, Malaysia. This lovely boutique hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Penang, established in 1948. Recent renovations have made it into a charming ‘modern classic’ beach getaway. It’s under the management of the exclusive E and O Hotel. So you can expect beautiful rooms and good service, but at a more affordable price.

The chance to try Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto’s first Pan-Asian restaurant is what brings most people to this Disney Springs spot, which opened in 2015. The menu blends flavors from China, Japan, Thailand, Singapore, South Korea, and Malaysia, while the decor impresses with a glass staircase, sparkling chandeliers, and a 270-foot-long bar. This is the kind of restaurant where sharing plates makes for the most satisfying meal, so come with a group and cover your table with Peking duck, sushi and sashimi, shumai dumplings, pad Thai noodles, and more. Just be sure to save room for the revelatory desserts, which range from Oreo tempura to house-made churros.

The Ritz-Carlton’s Cantonese restaurant serves some of the best dim sum in Kuala Lumpur. You’d be remiss not to order cha siu bao, pillowy steamed roast-pork buns that melt in your mouth, and juicy ha gow, shrimp dumplings in translucent wrappers. Although Li Yen is most often lauded for its dim sum, the Peking duck, crispy on the outside and succulent within, is another delectable signature dish.

If you’re in search of hornbills, there’s no need to trek into the deepest jungles. Just relax on the beach in Pangkor Island, Malaysia and they’ll come flying to you at sunrise and sunset! The Pangkor Island Beach Resort has a feeding area for these exotic birds, right on the beach. When hotel staff bring pieces of bread and fruits every morning and evening, dozens of hornbills fly down for their mealtime.

Tucked away inside Taman Negara National Park, in the far reaches of Malaysia, you will find the world’s longest canopy walk. Originally built for researchers, the suspended paths are now open to the public. The walk stretches for 500 meters and consists of 10 different bridge sections. While suspended 100 feet above the jungle floor, guides ensure that only about 4 or 5 people are on a section at a time, and that everyone is spaced about 5 meters apart. They instruct you to hold on with both hands at all times, and only take photos at designated points. I listened to none of this, but still made it out alive.

This striking white structure, built in 1910, takes top prize for uniqueness among Southeast Asia’s railway stations. Until the Petronas Towers were completed, this was Kuala Lumpur’s most iconic building. The station’s design is a singular mix of Moorish Revival, Indo-Gothic, and Mughal styles, and although the interior has undergone some updating, the exterior looks just as it did when it first opened more than a century ago. While this is commonly called the Old Railway Station, a number of commuter trains still use it. (A newer one designed to accommodate modern trains is next door, with its own entrance.) Directly across from the Old Railway Station is the equally impressive Malayan Railway Administration Building, built in 1917.