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A journey into the ethnic neighborhoods redefining the City of Light

The tallest hotel in mainland China occupies floors 79 to 93 of the Shanghai World Financial Center, the 101-story skyscraper made by Mori Building, developer of Tokyo’s Roppongi Hills complex. As expected, any room or public area in the property likely has jaw-dropping views. Interiors mirror the aesthetics of a cultured modern Chinese residence, with sequences of gates, halls, and chambers as thoroughfares, and earth tones complementing natural materials. Monochromatic rooms have walls finished in linen, lacquer, and slatted-wood panels, with generous daybeds, 24-hour butler service, and plasma televisions embedded in the bathrooms’ vanity mirrors. But really, no amenity can top the incredible views.

Shanghai’s arts and crafts enclave, Tianzifang, is a labyrinth of narrow lanes bursting with diminutive shops, restaurants, and bars. Most of the shops here are located inside shikumen, stone gatehouses dating to the early 1930s. Gear up for your shopping spree with a coffee alfresco at Kommune before checking out Xingmu Handicraft’s gorgeous handmade leather notebooks or Shanghai Code’s vintage Chinese glasses and watches. Pick up delicate stationery at Dongxi Workshop, Shanghai‘s very first boutique, and head to Sky Music Box for—you guessed it—music boxes from all over the world.

This hotel is on our list of The 11 Best Hotels in Chicago.

Often rated the best hotel in Chicago since it first opened in 2001, the Peninsula Chicago keeps its reputation by offering the finest high-end Chinese cuisine in the city and easily one of the top hotel spas in the Midwest. The Magnificent Mile mainstay has 339 spacious guest rooms and suites, outfitted in an understated style with floral motifs by artist David Qian. Thoughtful details include soaking tubs with hands-free televisions, a table for two set beside a window with a view, and linens custom created by Pratesi.

No stay would be complete without a meal at the Shanghai Terrace, where chef de cuisine Elmo Han earns accolades for his modern interpretations of Shanghainese, Cantonese, and Sichuanese classics. During the warmer months, you can dine (or just have a mocktail) on the actual terrace, the whole of Chicago displayed before you. Also required: an afternoon at the 15,000-square-foot Peninsula Spa, with its floor-to-ceiling windows, facials using Biologique Recherche products, and an Olympic-size pool and sun deck.

Twenty-four hours before check-in, be sure to request “Peninsula Time,” which allows guests to access their rooms as early as 6 a.m. and stay as late as 10 p.m.—a lifesaver for international or early-bird travelers. And eco-conscious travelers take note: The Pen recently received Gold Status from EarthCheck, its second consecutive Gold Status award.

For a respite from the city’s noise and smog, head out to She Shan. The 100m hill is a blissful retreat and an interesting cultural destination as well. European missionaries set up a small chapel here in the 1850s which was transformed into the She Shan Basilica in 1935. You’ll also find a Jesuit Observatory on the hill, which, among other things, features the Han Dynasty’s earthquake monitoring device, made up of two dragon heads and a pendulum. If you get swept up in the peace and quiet of the area, simply stay the night at the luxurious Le Meridien: http://ow.ly/t7nCY The hotel is an oasis in Shanghai‘s summer heat with a man-made beach, a golf course, and a fantastic weekend brunch. How to get here: take line 9 to Sheshan station and from there, you can either walk ~30 minutes to the mountain or take a 14RMB taxi ride.

There’s always a line in front of this hole-in-the-wall, but don’t be deterred: Jia Jia’s queue moves fast, and its steamed soup dumplings are worth the wait. When it’s your turn to order, you bark what you want—pork, crab, or pork and crab xiao long bao—pay, and move to the side to claim a plastic table. The only sounds in the restaurant are tapping chopsticks, satisfied slurping, and the occasional camera shutter. Jia Jia closes when it sell out, usually by early evening. And while the crab dumplings are available year-round, they’re absolutely incredible between September and December.

In a city packed with new construction, this Art Deco landmark remains a fixture of the Huangpu River—just as it has for more than eight decades. A favorite of visiting celebs and dignitaries, the Fairmont Peace Hotel is divided into North and South buildings. Complete with a copper-sheathed roof, Italian marble floors, and Lalique glass artwork, the 1920s North building—known as Sassoon House for its British businessman owner Sir Victor Sassoon—was once home to the Cathay Hotel; guests included Charlie Chaplin, George Bernard Shaw, and Noël Coward, who completed Private Lives here. The 1850s Renaissance South Building, formerly the Palace Hotel and once the tallest structure on Nanjing Road, was occupied by the Japanese during World War II. The two buildings combined to become the Peace Hotel in 1965, operating continuously until closing in 2007 for an overhaul of the exterior, interiors, lobby, and guest rooms by Hirsch Bedner Associates.

Today, Art Deco influences and romantic flourishes are evident throughout the 270 rooms and suites, many of which boast Bund views. Fairmont Gold rooms come with private check-in and lounge access, while the each of the opulent Nine Nations Suites is named for a different country and features corresponding décor. The Dragon Phoenix and Cathay Room serve Shanghainese–Cantonese and European cuisine, respectively, and the legendary Jazz Bar takes you back to a 1920s-era private club. After a day spent exploring the city or shopping along nearby Nanjing Road, take refuge in the Willow Stream Spa, which has 11 treatment rooms and a skylight-lit pool.

Row after row of booths are sprawled across this small part of Shanghai, just south of People’s Square. Here, you can find pretty much anything you want, from tiny Mao statues, to old leather suitcases stacked 10 feet tall. Each vendor will be on you as soon as you approach their booth. They are quite polite, however, and will have a calculator or phone handy to show you the price for their items. The catch is that the majority of these “antiques” are actually factory-made items, and most booths have similar items. The good part is that you have a really good chance of a low price if you bounce back & forth between booths that have the same items. Shopping aside, this is also a great spot to see daily Shanghai life. Laundry hangs over your head, food trucks cruise up and down the rows, and the vendors socialize with each other when they are not selling items. This is a must for any visitor to Shanghai.

One of Pudong’s marquee buildings, the Cesar Pelli–designed Shanghai IFC, is the setting for this 285-room property. Occupying the top 18 floors of the South Tower, the Ritz-Carlton opened in June 2010 during the World Expo and was meant to usher in Shanghai’s status as a global powerhouse. Its design skews modern with hints of 1930s Shanghai, while views take in panoramas of the Bund. Guest accommodations start at a roomy 540 square feet, have Art Deco themes, and include Asprey amenities.

A little known fact is that located within the Park Hotel, perched across from People’s Park, is the “Zero Center Point of Shanghai”. In 1950, the Shanghai Bureau of Land Administration designated the flagpole atop the Park Hotel as the true center of the city, using this landmark as a marker for its surface coordinate system. Pop into the lobby to stick your finger on the actual spot. And while you’re there, poke around and read a bit about the old race course that used to occupy People’s Park or glimpse into “Old Shanghai” in the hotel’s museum on the second floor.

While there are a number of ways to cross the Huangpu River, the most scenic is—without a doubt—by ferry. Part of Shanghai’s incredible public transportation system, a couple yuan will get you from one bank of the river to the other, with a view to boot. Ferries run every 15-20 minutes depending on the time of day and take off from various ports on either side. Check out the link below for more details.

Opened in 2012, the Four Seasons Pudong resides in what’s known locally as the Jewel Box—the 50-story, 21st-Century Tower, a rectangular prism in the heart of the Lujiazui business district. Art-filled interiors pull their inspiration from Shanghai’s 1920s and 1930s golden age. The lobby wows with a dramatic grand spiral staircase with an underbelly of Maccasar ebony, and a suspended, 1,000-strip metal sculpture created by Japan’s Studio Sawada Design that looks like a dangling collage of willowy twigs. Rooms offer prime views of Pudong’s evolving skyline and come with fresh flowers and Lorenzo Villoresi bath products. The decor is inspired by Shanghai Art Deco, with an intense palette of rouge, glossy black, and textured gray, coupled with smoky glass and metallic accents. In the bathrooms, a custom wall and glass panel mimic Coco Chanel’s iconic No. 5 perfume.

This huge property comprising two towers—the River Wing and the Grand Tower—showcases Huangpu River views from its position by the riverside promenade. The Grand Tower, designed by New York–based Kohn Pedersen Fox, features 375 rooms and suites, while the more classic River Wing has 577 rooms. High-style restaurants and bars sit between the two. Rooms have crystal chandeliers and a mural of Chinese flowers above the bed. The Gallery, in the Grand Tower, exhibits paintings and sculptures from up-and-coming artists, which rotate each quarter.

Yu Garden is a must-go place in Shanghai, especially you like architecture. It is such a peaceful place to go, even in the rain... This dragon rooftop is inside the Yu (Jade) Garden in Shanghai. The dragon looks toward to the sky, and about to fly into the cloud. The whole body of the dragon last the entire wall.

One of my highest recommendations for drinks is the Grand Hyatt Shanghai. The Grand Hyatt occupies the top 36 floors of the 88-story Jin Mao Tower in the Jetsons-looking Pudong district, so at sunset (or anytime) you have a stunning view (with no cover charge!) of all of Shanghai. There are lots of choices for eating and drinking in the Grand Hyatt. When I was there at sunset, nobody else was in the Cloud 9 sky lounge (which is like a night club with a 360-degree view from the 87th floor), so I went down to the 53rd-floor Lobby Lounge, which still seemed plenty high, and enjoyed the view and the cocktails there.