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How to Lose Your Way and Not Panic

Chris Walker and Morgan Hartley spent three months cycling through central Asia as part of an 18-month bike trip. Here is part one of five of their account, in which their trip is almost thwarted from the start.

A journey through one of the world’s last, best travel secrets.

Shanghai’s sprawling metro system makes reaching the city’s outlying destinations speedy and convenient. Several villages, islands, and attractions that offer a welcome respite from the bustle of the city are now just a few stops away from downtown. Be it a museum, a film studio or going to the source of the beloved xiaolongbao, it has never been easier to explore Shanghai’s outskirts.

There’s plenty to do in Shanghai, but if you’re pressed for time, prioritize those experiences that will give you a well-rounded perspective on the city. From an early morning stroll around Jing’an Park to an acrobat show to seeing the Bund by night, even taking a day trip to a water village, here’s an ideal itinerary for Shanghai.

With celebrated chefs hailing from every corner of the globe, Shanghai’s broad culinary landscape offers incredible restaurants in a spectrum of styles. Dumplings—Shanghai’s most popular snack—come in every glorious incarnation: fried and steamed, pork and radish. But there’s much more to eat and drink here. Duck into an urban soup kitchen, sit down for satisfying noodles, or discover the plethora of options on Wujiang Lu. Here are our picks of where to go!

Tianzifang is a must while you’re in Shanghai, but the maze of alleys and shops can be slightly overwhelming for first-timers. Here are a few of my favorite places—from funky shops to cool barrooms—to seek out while you’re wandering.

While you’ll never have time for all of Shanghai’s best sights, here are some of our favorites. Seek out the city’s art and mind-blowing architecture, decompress in tranquil gardens, or tour long-forgotten nightclubs. Trust us: You won’t be bored.

Shanghai is an adventurous shopper’s wonderland—here you’ll find everything from vintage Communist propaganda to ceramic paperweights shaped like dim sum. Bargain hunters and fashion-forward travelers will be in their element, too: You can grab expertly tailored suits and trendy Feiyue sneakers for scary cheap prices. No matter what you’re into, here’s where to shop.

When staying in Shanghai, travelers are spoilt for choice. Whether they’re looking for a boutique hotel within walking distance of the French Concession, an Art Deco landmark overlooking the Huangpu River, or a modern skyscraper with amenities including 24-hour butler service, they’re sure to find a hotel room to suit their needs. The hardest part will be deciding on just one place.

A new generation of tastemakers puts Beijing on the fashion map.

You can find this Shanghai stalwart just around the corner from the Portman Ritz-Carlton, plying eager diners with prototypical Shanghai dishes around the clock (and all-you-can-eat dim sum on the weekends). Locals here tuck into hairy crab soup (the crab comes from nearby Yangcheng Lake), lobster fried rice, sheng jian bao (pan-fried soup dumplings), Shanghai crispy duck (an umami-packed take on Peking duck), and, from the dim sum menu, fresh tofu vegetable rolls. If you’ve got limited time and want to taste both Shanghainese classics and proper dim sum, Lynn is the place.

Historic Shanghai’s tours and events are the closest you’ll can come to traveling back in time to Shanghai’s golden age. The group was founded by longtime Shanghai residents Tess Johnston, Tina Kanagaratnam, and Patrick Cranley. They host myriad cultural events—author talks, lectures, screenings—as well as tours of Shanghai’s historic sites and neighborhoods. All three owners are architecture buffs, and together they have an encyclopedic knowledge of Shanghai’s Western architecture, past and present. Tours and walks run a couple of times per month, covering topics like Americans in Old Shanghai, Old Shanghai’s nightclubs, and the regeneration of Yangpu District.

There’s no better place to enjoy authentic Shanghainese food than inside a 1920s Spanish villa. Right? Right! Take a seat at one of Fu 1088’s vintage tables, and get ready to savor a parade of elegantly plated local dishes. If you’re keen to try a classic Shanghai dish (or you’re all about unapologetically rich cuisine), order the hongshao rou (red braised pork). Or enjoy the lighter tea-smoked duck eggs and drunken chicken made with rice wine and topped with goji berries. The appetizers here skew a bit more modern, with deep-fried prawns with wasabi mayonnaise stealing the show. Note: There’s a minimum per person spend of about $46 at lunch and $77 at dinner.

Covering 140 hectares (about one-half square mile), this is no small green space. Pack a picnic, grab a kite, and head over to Century Park for some space to run around, or simply to chill out and watch life go by. Open daily from 7am-6pm. 10 RMB entrance fee.