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Why we love it: Modern luxury on the Sea of Cortez

The Highlights:
- Direct access to one of Los Cabos’ few swimmable beaches
- The largest spa in the area with lots of wellness programming
- Spacious and comfortable rooms

The Review:
Spread over 39 acres on the scenic coastal corridor between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, Montage’s first international resort is part of the 1,400-acre Twin Dolphins planned community—so named in honor of the legendary Hotel Twin Dolphin, said to be the first luxury hotel in Los Cabos, and a favorite getaway of stars like Elizabeth Taylor, Bing Crosby, and Lucille Ball back in the day. Today, vacationing celebs—and the rest of us—will find a contemporary, desert- and sea-inspired retreat with 122 rooms and suites (ranging from coastal and ocean view options to multi-bedroom suites), three group-friendly Casas (which come with extras like a butler, private pool, and complimentary BBQ night), and 52 furnished residences. All are comfortable and equipped with necessary conveniences (including Nespresso machines), but you’ll probably spend little time in your room as there’s so much to do and explore here.

Take advantage of the hotel’s location on Santa Maria Bay—one of the only swimmable beaches in the region—with some snorkeling or diving, or hang out in a beach cabana or around one of the three pools (which offer some adults-only areas). Guests can also head to the 40,000-square-foot Spa Montage for hot and cold plunge pools; fitness, yoga, and meditation classes; and treatments inspired by Mayan and Aztec traditions. (The Spa also has an in-house shaman who leads nightly stargazing and meditation sessions.) When hunger strikes, savor modern Mexican fare at Mezcal or visit the beachfront Marea, which transforms from day to night to offer two distinct dining experiences.

The ruins of Lubaantun, a Maya city that thrived from around AD 700 to 900 but was abandoned soon after, are somewhat unusual in a country where Maya ruins are almost common. Black slate is the primary building material. There’s a noticeable lack of mortar and a large collection of miniature ceramic objects has been found over the years. It is the largest Maya site in Southern Belize and has become well known for its strange style of construction. Lubaantun is also where the controversial crystal skull was supposedly discovered by Anna Mitchell-Hedges (though that’s since been almost entirely disproved). Visitors are free to wander the site, where there is a small visitor center and an admission fee of $10.

Before I went to Belize, anyone I spoke with who had already been told me that I had to have a meal at Elvi’s Kitchen. What started out as a take-out burger window in 1974 eventually became a sit-down restaurant serving lovingly prepared Caribbean dishes such as conch soup and fritters, mojo de ajo, fried green plantains, and street corn. During high season you might have to wait in line to eat dinner at the restaurant, but most of the time, there isn’t much delay. Save room for dessert. Elvi’s Kitchen is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Saturday.

Thermal springs dot the countryside just north of San Miguel, some as close as a five-minute taxi ride away. Newest—and closest among them—is the Spa at Los Senderos (pictured above), with an adjacent sandy lakeshore for a day-at-the-beach facsimile. In fact, this is a wider residential and ecological project that includes vineyards and organic orchards. Older spas like La Gruta, Escondido Place, and Taboada merit daylong excursions, with lunch being served while you recline in your chaises longues. And the Mayan Baths, with an underground rock-walled grotto complete with candles and piped-in music, can make for a romantic evening, even including a buffet dinner. (That said, double-check the somewhat irregular schedule.)

Mexico City has no dearth of luxurious boutique hotels, but Las Alcobas is a special option. Designed by famed firm Yabu Pushelberg, the hotel is full of gorgeous details, from hand-stitched leather wall coverings to a spiral staircase that surges up from the lobby. Upon arrival, guests enjoy a welcome drink as a bellman leads them to their room; explains the technology that controls the light, sound and temperature; and offers them a selection of handmade soaps. Once settled in, they can lounge in plush robes on their goose-down comforters while sampling snacks from the minibar. For a heartier meal, Las Alcobas offers two excellent restaurants. Just outside the hotel’s front door, there’s also Presidente Masaryk, Polanco’s main avenue full of restaurants and high-end boutiques.

Belize’s liveliest time of the year comes in September, when the entire country celebrates independence for three entire weeks leading up to Sept. 21. The major towns and cities host various events, and a countrywide calendar is published on Sept. 1, allowing you to follow along with the fun wherever you might find yourself in Belize. The most popular events are a steel pan concert called Pan Yaad, held in Belize City, and two full-blown carnival parades. Belize City Carnival, with soca and Caribbean music blaring, is held in mid-September, while Orange Walk Carnival takes place on Independence Day and celebrates Mestizo heritage. Take advantage of low-season fares to get a unique culture-filled experience in Belize in September.

One of Cancún’s oldest restaurants, La Habichuela was a 1970s original whose owner wanted a place to hang out with friends. It’s become an upscale dining room featuring local Mayan recipes alongside Mexican-Caribbean fare. The now iconic restaurant borders downtown’s Las Palapas Park, and has a charming backyard garden adorned with twinkly lights and climbing vines. Start the evening with balché, an ancestral Mayan drink made from the bark and roots of the balché tree that have been soaked in honey and water. For your entrée, try the amaranth fish bathed in flavorful tamarind and mango vinaigrettes.

Just as taking in some of the iconic sights—Mayan temples and rivers—is a must for visitors to Orange Walk, so is stopping for a meal at Nahil Mayab. The restaurant, the name of which translates to “House of the Maya,” is owned by a respected Orange Walk family. The garden restaurant serves a variety of typical Mestizo and Caribbean-inspired dishes in an inside dining room or outside on the patio under an umbrella. Sample the popular tacos arracheras (skirt steak), the pork salpicón (a chopped hash that’s an Orange Walk specialty), fried fish, quesadillas, or a variety of burgers, salads, steaks, and pasta. The atmosphere is casual and lively, particularly on the weekends, when many Orange Walkeños gather here to catch up.

If you’ve dreamed of climbing an ancient Mayan ruin yet remaining free from the madding crowd, Cancún has a little secret: the El Rey Ruins, an archaeological treasure tucked into the Hotel Zone and just a 10-minute bus ride from most city resorts. As recently as 1200 C.E., the site was a center for maritime trade. While thousands of tourists pack into other ruins hours away, hardly anyone knows about El Rey, which is relatively small in comparison, and you’ll probably see only a handful of other visitors. Perhaps best of all: You can still climb the pyramids.

Wonderful catamarans that you can rent right off the beach.

Mérida’s many historic plazas are jam packed with open air event throughout the year. Popular with tourists and locals alike is Yucatecan “Jarana”, a traditional form of dance accompanied by live music. One of the best places to see the show is at “Serenata Yucateca”, a free event each Thursday in the newly restored Plaza Santa Lucía, a traditional square just four blocks from the main Centro plaza. The musicians, singers and dancing “mestizos”, decked out in their colorful costumes begin the show at 9 PM, as they have for the last 40 years. There are plenty of benches to sit to enjoy the show. Also, with restaurants and bars spilling out on the sidewalk, its a great way to catch a dinner and show. Santa Lucía in not just a park, it is also the name of the neighborhood that has come alive since the recent renovation. With traditional cafes, restaurants and shops such as La Chaya Maya and Coqui Coqui Perfumerie, it is fast becoming the “it” place to be in downtown Mérida. Many colonial houses with a private pools are available to rent in Santa Lucia and in the surroundings so you can close the action. (Images courtesy of Merida.gob.mx and aany.org)

Choco–Story is located just 5 mins from the archeological site of Uxmal, so we decided to check it out on our way back to Merida. It looks a bit touristy (disney-ish) from the outside, but it turned out to be a well-executed, interactive museum, that is built around the Mayan culture and history of chocolate. A self-guided tour took us through various smaller huts chronicling the history of chocolate within the Mayan culture, and the best part? A delicious hot chocolate tasting at the end of it! Of course you can taste and buy hot chocolate powder and chocolate bars afterwards at their pretty gift store. My personal highlight though was a powerful demonstration of a Mayan rain ceremony in the forest, in honor of the god Chaac. It began with distinctive, booming sounds, alternating from different directions, from deep within the trees. It slowly traveled closer, until we saw 3 men walking towards the altar in front of us, while they continued to blow into conch shells. It was moving and allowed us a small glimpse into the mystical and majestic Mayan culture. There is also a small wildlife refuge there, with rescued Jaguars, deers, and spider monkeys, that can be fed through the chain link enclosure. OPEN EVERYDAY: 9am – 7:30pm ENTRY FEES (at time of publishing) Adults: $120.00 pesos Seniors(65+) / Students / Children (6-12 years) $90.00 pesos Children less than 6 years: free >>>A heartfelt thank you to Yucatan Tourism for an unforgettable 4 days in the Yucatan, my new favorite place in Mexico! @YucatanTourism #TravelYucatan

Pok-Ta–Pok is an ancient Mayan ball game, that was played thousands of years ago as part of a sacred, sacrificial ceremony, pitting good against evil. The general belief is that the ball, five pounds of solid rubber, could only be hit with forearms and thighs. The goal of the game was to maneuver the ball through a stone hoop extending from a wall. The winner (yes, winner!) of the game was sacrificed, which was then the highest honor bestowed on a Mayan player. Pok-Ta-Pok ball courts, which must have been inspiration for Harry Potter’s Quidditch, can still be found at Mayan archeological sites, such as Chichen Itza, and Uxmal. Friday nights the ancient sport is reenacted in front of Merida Cathedral–luckily though, sans sacrifice. It’s fun to watch and it gets pretty crazy towards the end, when the ball is literally ON FIRE, prompting faster passes, for sure. Get there a little early to grab close-up seats, or a position close to the rails. It is good to be near the action. >>>A heartfelt thank you to Yucatan Tourism for an unforgettable 4 days in the Yucatan, my new favorite place in Mexico! @YucatanTourism #TravelYucatan

Housed in a 1964 structure whose modern lines and central fountain greatly complement what’s on view, this anthropology museum is a repository of the most important pre-Hispanic treasures modern Mexico has discovered. The works are displayed in exhibits that trace the entire history of the Americas’ indigenous population, from the Bering migration to the present day. Exhaustive (and sometimes exhausting) in scope, many visitors choose to jump ahead to “greatest-hits” galleries focusing on name brands like the Aztecs (to see their misnamed calendar stone); the Maya and their artifacts; or the Olmec culture, famed for its colossal (and quite sensual) head sculptures dating back to Mesoamerica’s earliest recorded eras.

Overshadowed by its larger and more well-known cousins, Palenque and Chichén-Itzá, Uxmal (“Oosh-mahl”) is the ruins of an ancient Maya city located near present-day Campeche. In its heyday, Uxmal was one of the largest cities of the Yucatan peninsula with a population of about 25,000 Maya. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Ancient Maya architecture in this part of Mexico is referred to as Puuc architecture, and Uxmal is a prime example of this style. Though there are some Puuc structures in Chichén-Itzá, Uxmal is unique in all of Mexico. Puuc design is most notable for buildings with a plain lower façade and a richly decorated upper façade. Carvings most commonly found include serpents and latticework. Uxmal is dedicated to the Maya rain god, Chaac, and you can see his image everywhere. On the day we were here, it was blisteringly hot and humid; I could’ve used some rain! When I first laid eyes on the four buildings that make up the complex known as the Nunnery Quadrangle, I thought they were the most elegant Maya ruins I had ever seen. The clean lines of the buildings give them a modernity that is surprising considering Uxmal was built more than 1,000 years ago! The carvings on the upper facades are just spectacular and give the entire structure a very delicate feel. Uxmal is located close to Chichén-Itzá, so if you go to Chichén, consider going a bit further to visit Uxmal. You won’t regret it!