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Beyond the Olympics in London’s East End

From cooking classes to high tea, and from pedicab tours to sidecar excursions, some experiences just shouldn’t be missed in China’s capital city.

If you’re planning to stay in Beijing, you’ll have your pick of both international hotel chains and a growing number of boutique properties, many within walking distance of major sights. Choose a spot in a central location, near the Summer Palace or an important shopping street, or base your decision on perks like room service and free Wi-Fi. Either way, you can expect to find a great home base for getting to the heart of Beijing.

When the Terra Cotta Army was uncovered in Xi’an in 1974, the world took notice of the Shaanxi city. The army—filled with 8000 life-size soldiers, as well as weapons, horses, chariots, and other characters—was buried in the tomb of China’s first emperor. Visitors can discover more treasures than frozen troops in Xi’an, though: Along with its famous cuisine, the city is rich with peaceful temples and and holy mosques, hutongs that rival those in Beijing, historic palaces from the Tang Dynasty, and intact walls and fortifications that date back to the seventh century.

Dining at Made in China at the Grand Hyatt is expensive, but the staff creates an excellent experience. Open kitchens allow you to catch a glimpse of the Peking ducks roasting in ovens over fruitwood-fueled fires. I always order the dumplings. —Fuchsia Dunlop This appeared in the May 2013 issue.

A journey into the ethnic neighborhoods redefining the City of Light

This modern French restaurant is located down a hutong (narrow street or alley) and inside a 600-year-old Buddhist temple complex. The dining room was once Beijing‘s first black-and-white television factory. TRB’s space is a handsome study in contrasts: a centuries-old temple in Beijing lovingly renovated to include a bright, clean-lined restaurant serving contemporary European fare. Lunch and dinner are three-, four-, or five-course affairs, available with wine pairings. Dishes on the summer menu include slow-cooked cod with potato fondant and broccoli and, for dessert, chocolate pie with poached pear, pear sorbet, and chocolate sauce. TRB has a second, equally superb restaurant adjacent to the Forbidden City.

The Forbidden City gets top billing in Beijing, and that’s good news for visitors to Jingshan Park. The 23-hectare (57-acre) park is just north of the Forbidden City, separated by a moat. A former imperial park dating to the 11th century, this was where the emperor and his family, living in the Forbidden City, would come to stroll. The big draw here is the hill (shan means mountain) with five summits, each of which has a mid-16th-century pavilion that once housed copper Buddha statues, destroyed at the beginning of the 20th century. Stake out a spot on Wanchun (Ten Thousand Spring) Pavilion from where, on a clear day, you have a stunning view of the entire Forbidden City, the Bell and Drum towers, Miaoying Temple, and Beihai Park.

To understand China, it’s imperative to understand the important role religion and philosophy play in the culture. Buddhism is one such influence, and this gorgeous temple tells a bit of that story. Yonghegong is in the northern part of Beijing and is easily accessible by bus or subway. Go late in the afternoon to avoid the tour buses and catch monks in the midst of their ceremonies.

Yonghegong is also known as the Yonghe Temple, Yonghe Lamasery, and Lama Temple.

The food is as authentic as it gets at this Sichuan restaurant, which is part of the Sichuan provincial government’s Beijing office. Sichuan is known for its fiery cuisine, but if some in your party prefer things a little less piquant, Chuan Ban has a number of dishes that won’t quite set your mouth on fire. You can’t go wrong with mapo doufu (squares of white tofu suspended in chili oil) and lazi ji (diced fried chicken under a mountain of chili peppers). Suancai tudouni (mashed potato with pickled cabbage), scallion pancakes, gan bian siji dou (sautéed green beans), and, of course, a small bowl of rice per person cool your tongue.

After decades of rule by innocuous lagers, a small revolution is brewing in Beijing’s beer scene, with a handful of small-scale brew operations popping up over the past few years. Great Leap is among them and brings together foreign beer makers with local ingredients in a way that doesn’t make “East meets West” sound cliché.

Take the popular Honey Ma Gold Ale. It has peppercorns from Sichuan, in central China, and Shandong date honey from the coast. Meanwhile, Little General IPA uses Chinese hops, while Danshan Wheat Beer includes black tea from Fujian. All fun to try. Beers at Great Leap start at ¥25 for a pour of Pale Ale No. 6. Great Leap’s flagship brewery and pub, on Xinzhong Street, can handle everything from large parties to single imbibers, offers views of the brewing equipment behind a glass wall, and has a good range of bar food, including a tasty burger and fries at ¥40. Order it and you are almost sure to get one last pint.

The world’s seventh-largest public square is best known in the West for the 1989 student protests, but this is also where, on October 1, 1949, Mao Zedong founded the People’s Republic of China. The square was named for Tiananmen (which translates as “Gate of Heavenly Peace”), one of the gates of the former imperial city. It was built in 1651, then expanded in 1958 to four times its original size, and enlarged even further in 1976 with the construction of Mao’s mausoleum. Arrive at sunrise to watch the solemn flag-raising ceremony, performed with pride, precision, and a touch of flair.

While the surroundings of the gilded tower of the Waldorf Astoria Beijing aren’t exactly inspiring, the sea of people pouring into Wangfujing gives the neighborhood a lively feel. Opened in 2014, the elegant Waldorf Astoria is undoubtedly designed to cater to nouveau-riche Chinese. The lobby is classic Art Deco, with traces of the orientalism that so fascinated the West during the early 20th century. The Waldorf Astoria Hutong Courtyard, where you’ll find the Waldorf Hutong Villa and four Hutong Studios, evokes the Beijing of bygone ages. It’s not exactly historic, but it does offer a sense of hutong living.

When Beijing’s hutongs—narrow alleyways that connect to form mazelike neighborhoods—were originally built, they were lined with stone houses that had central courtyards. In 1949, with the founding of the People’s Republic of China, there were more than 3,000 hutongs; so many have been razed since that time that there are now fewer than 1,000. The remaining hutongs are where locals chat with their neighbors, sit outside on hot summer nights, buy fruit, and tend to their gardens, all without leaving their own alleyway. Seeing this side of traditional Beijing life is delightful and serves as a marked contrast to the many shops, restaurants, cafés, and bars that now occupy the courtyard homes lining the alleyways.

By name alone this sounds like a wine bar, but it’s actually a welcoming izakaya, albeit one that has a good selection of wine, as well as sake, shochu, and of course Asahi beer. Vin Vie is on Nongzhanguan Bei Lu, hidden away through a gate and behind a Sichuan restaurant. Dinner here is a cheerful, languid affair as you order a few dishes and drinks, eat and imbibe, and then repeat. Like any izakaya worth its salt, the menu has enough variety to satisfy vegetarians and carnivores. A perfect square of soft, creamy tofu, beef tendon marinated in wine and miso, sardines served warm and in their can, and pickled shishamo (fish) are among the can’t-miss dishes. Reservations are recommended.