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Wandering Chef: Caitlin Freeman on the Brazilian Coffee Scene

Quinto La Huella is the second location of arguably Uruguay’s most famous and best restaurant, the Parador La Huella in the tiny resort town of José Ignacio. On the fifth floor of the East, Miami, hotel, the eatery uses a wood-fired parrilla (grill) and oven to cook nearly everything on the menu. The dining room is wrapped in wood, and the outside dining area is a garden oasis with leafy foliage, great music, and a homey vibe. The burrata, served with fresh figs, prosciutto, and walnuts, is a standout starter, and don’t forget to order smashed potatoes, which are served as they are in Uruguay: The potato is grilled over the fire and smashed right before serving, to retain the natural texture of the vegetable.

We took a four night trip to the Peruvian jungle and the Macaws at this clay-lick were a highlight from the boat trip up the river.

The Hong Kong-based Swire Hotels launches in the U.S. with their 352-room EAST, Miami, located in city’s bustling financial district. L.A.-based Studio Collective and New York’s Clodagh Design paired up to design the interiors, which mix intricate woodwork with sleek furnishings. Original artwork from notable names such as China-born Zha Songgang and Miami-based Alexander Mijares hangs throughout the hotel, along with photographs that highlight Miami’s colorful scenery and Modernist architecture. Quinto La Huella, an outpost of a famous seafood restaurant in José Ignacio, Uruguay, promises to draw locals and visitors alike, while the hotel’s rooftop space serves Asian-inspired tapas with views of the skyline. From $259

Beaches are often named for their principal attributes, and such is the case with Playa Mansa. Mansa means “calm” in Spanish, and the waters are typically placid here, ideal for families with children and swimmers who prefer smooth-as-glass seas over surf’s-up breakers. In contrast to another Punta del Este beach, Playa Brava (Fierce Beach), Mansa’s water is usually warm, and the soft sands are perfect for a long walk. Plenty of bars and food kiosks will keep you sated.

The oldest public building in Montevideo, located on Constitution Square, is the city’s Roman Catholic cathedral. Built in 1804 on the site of an earlier church from 1740, it is commonly referred to as la Iglesia Matriz, or “mother church,” acknowledging it as the first church in the region. Its lavish interior is rich in marble and it’s also the final resting place of many of Uruguay’s most important political figures.

Years before Punta del Este became a destination on the travel radar, Chilean artist Mario Irarrázabal installed one of the area’s most popular attractions, the public sculpture known as La Mano (The Hand). It’s also called Los Dedos (The Fingers), for its five fingers pushing up out of the sand on Playa Brava. Designed as part of an open-air sculpture exhibition in 1982, the fingers represent a warning, for the waters behind it tend to be rough. Many visitors are probably unaware of its meaning as they pause to pose for a photo with the hand.

Convenient to Montevideo’s cruise ship terminal, the Mercado del Puerto was first inaugurated in 1868 and long served as the city’s principal meat and produce market. The clock here is almost as famous as the building itself. Constructed, like the entire market, in England and then shipped to Uruguay, it dominates the central hall of the cast-iron building. The Mercado del Puerto no longer operates as a market and today houses a number of popular restaurants serving typical Uruguayan dishes.

The Plaza Independencia is the most important square in Montevideo, connecting the Ciudad Vieja and the city’s downtown. Several of the city’s most famous landmarks are located here, including the Palacio Salvo and the Teatro Solís. Dominating the heart of the formal square is the Artigas Mausoleum, which houses the remains of José Artigas, the man who declared Uruguay’s independence from Spain at the beginning of the 19th century.

Life in Montevideo is focused on its seafront, both the working port and the beaches. Few capital cities can boast as many stunning beaches, many lined by waterfront promenades. Pocitos, ten minutes from downtown, is an affluent neighborhood and home to many of the city’s most beautiful buildings including a number of embassies. It’s a good place to experience life by the seashore, perhaps with a glass of wine at one of the many sidewalk cafés with views of the beach and the Río de la Plata.

Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja, or Old Town, is located on a peninsula separating the Río de la Plata from the harbor. It has the orderly grid typical of many Spanish cities in the New World. Until 1829, the Ciudad Vieja was walled though today only one gate (the Puerta de la Ciudadela) remains of those defenses. This section of Montevideo is home to many of the city’s most famous historic buildings, including the cathedral and the Cabildo, which today houses the city’s archives.

In the shadow of El Yunque, The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort is situated on 486 acres of former coconut plantation and native maritime forest. There are still plenty of palms here, but now the flora also includes all manner of tropical flowers and trees, positioned around numerous trails for walking, running, and biking. Families love the resort for its many amenities, from four tennis courts and a Robert Trent Jones Jr.-branded golf course to a luxurious spa and state-of-the-art fitness center. A new partnership with Aquavento Water Sports provides equipment for everything from kayaking and paddle-boarding to fishing and sailing on nearby lakes, while the Soul of Bahia program gives guests the opportunity to volunteer with a rescue organization for local cats and dogs or help maintain a turtle sanctuary during hatching season. Still, the most popular activity might just be lounging at the pool or on the two-mile-long golden beach.

Part of a $60 million renovation following Hurricane Maria, the hotel now features a design by celebrated Puerto Rican designer Nono Maldonado and San Francisco-based firm Hirsch Bedner Associates. The plantation-style dark woods and warm browns have been swapped out for more modern, sea-inspired colors, and the 139 rooms have a chic, residential feel, with sprawling bathrooms, private terraces, and glass bar cabinets that can be stocked to your personal tastes by a 24-hour butler. Occupying a two-story building overlooking the ocean, the Casa Grande lobby is the place to go to experience the hotel’s daily Champagne sabering ritual, enjoy live music from a Steinway piano, admire the mural over the St. Regis Bar, or enjoy Greek-inspired fare at the hotel’s signature restaurant, Paros. The poolside restaurant and beach shack have also been redone to ensure uninterrupted views over the water.

One of the most iconic landmarks of Montevideo, the Palacio Salvo stands on the Plaza Independencia. The building was intended as a hotel when it was constructed in 1928, according to a design by the Italian architect Mario Palanti, but it never served that purpose and today is home to offices and private apartments. The building is closed to the public, but you can still admire its unusual neo-Gothic design from the plaza.

The Mercado Agrícola de Montevideo is a must-see for both architecture- and culinary-minded travelers. The majestic cast-iron structure is one of the most elegant buildings erected in the early 20th century in Montevideo. And while the Mercado del Puerto has been converted to a home for upscale restaurants, the Mercado Agrícola remains a working market. A walk through its food hall provides a chance to sample the best of Uruguayan produce as well as sauces, jams and sweets. The market also regularly hosts musical performances.

Read articles from this print issue of Afar Magazine.