Search results for

One traveler returns to Laos.

Where Southeast Asian beaches are concerned, the longer the journey, the more worthy the destination. It’s true. It may take a bit more effort to reach Cambodia’s beaches than many of those in Thailand or Malaysia, but choose wisely and all the buses, taxis, and tuktuks will soon be forgotten. Adventurers eager to get off the grid entirely will love Koh Ta Kiev. If lounging by your own personal infinity pool is more your speed, then you should invest your vacation budget in a villa at Song Saa’s private island resort.

A 15-minute walk from Langkawi’s beaches, the Temple Tree resort redefines “home-stay.” Guests sleep in authentic Malaysian heritage houses—including a century-old Chinese farmhouse, a colonial-style bungalow, and a 1940s-era Malay home—that were disassembled at their original sites and rebuilt on the hotel grounds. Now updated with modern amenities, the structures are appointed with local antiques such as money boxes and birdcages. Don’t miss the resort’s lagoon or its eponymous Chinese temple, built around a tree tied with colored ribbons. As a feel-good bonus, some profits from the hotel benefit owner Narelle McMurtrie’s animal rescue organization.

This appeared in the March/April 2010 issue.

Petaling Street is renowned for selling fake goods, everything from designer watches and bags to football jerseys and video games. Originally, the street was open to traffic, but it has since become an enclosed area, complete with transparent roof for protection against rain. Bargaining is the norm when buying, but nowadays stall owners have become so used to this ‘game’ that they’re reluctant to reduce their prices too low (like in the old days). Still, it’s a must visit if you’re in K.L. Even though it’s more crowded, it’s best to go at night when it’s cooler and there are more stalls. The top photo shows the main entrance to the street, and the bottom photo shows the view as you walk in.

When visiting Kuala Lumpur, it is impossible to not see the Petronas Towers. Any architect knows that when you build the world’s tallest skyscraper, it will only hold that title for a while, and then it will be surpassed. So what better way to maintain rarefied status than to build, not one, but two mighty towers and then put a bridge between them. The best part about the towers though, is that they turn the lights off precisely at midnight every night. We stood at the base of these majestic structures, and at the stroke of midnight watched as the lights clicked off down the height of the buildings. Even with the lights off, the Petronas Towers still look absolutely amazing. Much like a truly beautiful woman, the make-up (lights) merely accentuate the true brilliance that resides just below the surface.

Usually when a restaurant tries to offer two distinct menus, they fail miserably. Not at fatCUPID. The beefburger smothered in fried egg and the lemon butter snapper are just as tasty as the nyonya laksa or the sambal udang, with their juicy prawns. You can eat here and satisfy both your urge to eat local and your desire for home comfort food. The restaurant itself feels distinctly Malaysian, but also fresh and new. The restaurant is only a year old; I hope they keep it exactly the way it is. Delicious.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

Located in the heart of Orlando’s Little Vietnam district, this casual eatery does Pan-Asian cuisine perfectly, with a spread of affordable, piping-hot dishes inspired by hawker-style street food. It’s hardly a new concept in a city known for great Asian restaurants, but Mamak does it exceptionally well with small plates like beef bulgogi, golden roti canai bread, Indonesian nasi goreng, and a spectacular version of Malaysian char kway teow noodles. Come with a group so you can order a little bit of everything—it’s the kind of place where sharing just two dishes is nothing short of sin.

Located on the international culinary corridor that is Buford Highway, Food Terminal brings the flavors of a Malaysian food market to Atlanta. Here, Amy Wong and Howie Ewe (who also own Sweet Hut Bakery and Café and Top Spice, a Thai and Malaysian chain) cook family recipes, drawing from memories of their homeland. Grab a seat in the modern space and choose from a menu of numbered noodle and rice dishes. The Grandma Wonton BBQ Pork Noodles—served with fried pork wontons, tender pork belly, egg noodles, bok choy, and a fried egg—are a favorite, but the Hainanese chicken and roti canai are also popular.

Muntri Mews in Penang is my kind of hotel. Formerly an old mews house, its owners have fitted it out with clean, comfortable rooms that retain the charm of their days as stables (think romantic mosquito nets and wooden beam architectural details). The hotel is small and the service is personal and friendly. Breakfast on the hotel’s patio in the heart of historic Georgetown is the perfect way to start a day of meandering through the back streets of this historic, character-filled foodie heaven.

After a 10-minute ferry ride from Changi Point in Singapore City, you’ll arrive on Pulau Ubin—a small, densely forested island where life moves a little slower. Rent a bicycle and spend a lazy day pedaling around this sleepy fishing kampung (village). You can sample fresh grilled fish and prawns from seaside hawker stalls, sip Tiger Beer, and get a glimpse of what life was like in parts of Singapore as recently as 50 years ago. Visitors may also enjoy kayaking trips and nature walks led by local volunteers. Check the National Parks website for details and to book tours. If you don’t want the peace and quiet to end, stay overnight at the island’s resort or at one of its free beach campsites.

When on Langkawi, an island with a thriving fishing community, it’s always a good idea to eat some fresh fish. While it may not seem intuitive to order Japanese food in Malaysia, you won’t be disappointed at Unkaizan. Order exclusively off the “black board” where they post their daily specials and signature dishes.

Serene. That’s how I would describe the pool at the Lone Pine Hotel in Penang, Malaysia. This lovely boutique hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Penang, established in 1948. Recent renovations have made it into a charming ‘modern classic’ beach getaway. It’s under the management of the exclusive E and O Hotel. So you can expect beautiful rooms and good service, but at a more affordable price.

The chance to try Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto’s first Pan-Asian restaurant is what brings most people to this Disney Springs spot, which opened in 2015. The menu blends flavors from China, Japan, Thailand, Singapore, South Korea, and Malaysia, while the decor impresses with a glass staircase, sparkling chandeliers, and a 270-foot-long bar. This is the kind of restaurant where sharing plates makes for the most satisfying meal, so come with a group and cover your table with Peking duck, sushi and sashimi, shumai dumplings, pad Thai noodles, and more. Just be sure to save room for the revelatory desserts, which range from Oreo tempura to house-made churros.

There’s a reason this humble Indian-Malaysian restaurant is consistently packed: It serves mouthwatering curries, naan, dosa, biryanis and murtabak (a stuffed, panfried bread) at very reasonable prices. The extensive menu can be overwhelming, but you can’t go wrong with garlic naan with dal, tandoori chicken and an invigorating freshly squeezed juice.