Every destination has its iconic dishes, whether it’s pizza in Naples or bagels in New York. In Xian, it’s yangrou paomo, a soup with fragrant mutton meat, chilies, caraway, pickled garlic, and pieces of flatbread. In traditional restaurants, you’ll break the flatbread yourself. Once you work the bread into small crumbles, you relinquish it to the chef to stir it into the hot soup. This soup turns up across Shaanxi Province, but there’s no more special place to slurp it than in Xian.