Tempura is a masterpiece, and at Xi Yi Lang, septuagenarian Asano Kiichiro is the art director. Dinner is set menus (from roughly $44), a tasting parade of beautifully presented dishes. The meal might start with edamame and river shrimp, or several pieces of buttery sashimi. Then begins the onslaught of heavenly tempura—shrimp, asparagus, sweet potato, fish, lotus root, shiso leaves, and shiitake mushrooms. If this is overwhelming, you can order both tempura and sashimi à la carte. Lunch is less opulent but no less delicious—there is a more compact tasting menu, or go for a rice bowl. Roasted anago don (sea eel) is a specialty here.