It's famous for Hound of the Baskervilles, and it's a terror of a place to get lost, especially on a wet or foggy day. But if you wait for the right weather, the Two Moors Way across Dartmoor (it connects to Exmoor) is an absolute beauty. We chose what seemed a small section of it, just outside Widdecombe, but it still provided four hours of breathtaking walking up tors, around cairns and across blasted moorland, made all the more dramatic by the spring practice of "swaling" - farmers burn the gorse to encourage new growth for grazing. I'm no hiker, but with a map, good weather and reasonable signage we managed it just fine. We came across wild ponies, plenty of sheep, and, crucially, an ice cream van and a pub that served local cider.