West of Asheville lies the remnants of arboreal splendor. We'd missed the 'peak weekend' of leaf-peeping along the southern end of the Blue Ridge Parkway, which meant that we also missed the heaviest traffic. Autumn vistas don't often come with solitude along the Blue Ridge Parkway on October weekends, but get off the road just a little bit, and the views can make up for it. Past 'peak?' So what!