As a military base of the Yugoslav National Army, the island of Vis was closed off to foreigners for decades, but now it has become one of Croatia’s best-kept secrets, mainly for its great beaches and food. You can tour the island’s formerly restricted military sites, abandoned when the army left suddenly in 1992. The tours take in rocket shelters, bunkers, storage halls for weapons, "parking lots" (read: tunnels) for submarines, the communication headquarters for Yugoslavia's secret service dug into a mountain, and Tito’s Cave (where the erstwhile Yugoslav president hid away during World War II). Lest this sound grim, note that these occupy some of the most gorgeous spots on the island. Several agencies offer these tours; try Vis Special (www.vis-special.com) or VisIt (www.visit.hr).