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Proprietor JoAnn Clevenger loves art, loves food, and loves making sure her customers are happy. (That’s Clevenger who greeted you at the door, with the upswept grey hair and red dress.) Housed in a brightly colored, art-filled former home at the edge of a mini uptown business district, Upperline is a great choice for evening dining; it's got one fork in tradition, one in innovation. Some of the better dishes: duck-and-sausage gumbo, fried green tomatoes with shrimp rémoulade (the restaurant's own creation, now widely imitated), crisp and spicy fried oysters, and a brisket-soft lamb shank.