A pastoral landscape dotted with ancient Christian ruins is the setting for Umm Qais village in Northern Jordan. It’s also where you’ll find detour-worthy home-style cooking at this charming, unfussy restaurant and inn. Located within an Ottoman-era house, Umm Qais Rest House prepares meant-to-be-shared plates of hummus drizzled with olive oil, chopped salad with sweet tomatoes and fresh mint, and grilled meats. If you sit on the outdoor terrace, flanked by floral arrangements, you’ll also savor views of the Sea of Galilee, the rolling hills of the Golan Heights, and Lebanon just beyond. On summer evenings, Umm Qais becomes something of a hotspot, with an extensive dinner buffet and a DJ.