348 Rua Barão da Torre
Trattoria PiciArrive at this Ipanema stalwart in a patient mood, because there’s generally a line; pass the time nursing an Aperol spritz or an Italian vintage. The idea is to order whatever you would order in any Tuscan hamlet, though with Rio-style adaptations. Standout pastas include an authentic carbonara (the egg is opened and egg yolk extracted right at tableside), pesto gnocchi, and, of course, the pasta that lends the place its name, pici, a kind of long, thick spaghetti you don’t normally see in these parts. Other menu items hearken back to the Carioca, like the octopus with mashed baroa potato. Note, no corkage fees.