Sichuan Classics in an Evocative Setting
Some argue that true Sichuanese food can only really be enjoyed outdoors, and served up by surly waitresses. Transit would disagree with you. This elegant restaurant proves that fine Sichuanese dining is a perfectly respectable thing. Flavors are strong and spicy, but it thankfully lacks the buckets of oil that usually accompanies this regional style. Be sure to try classics like the mapo dofu, koushuiji, and hongshaorou, which get most of the plaudits.
By Lisa Gay
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