This ultra-popular Hunanese joint looks like like a Scandi home goods showroom than a restaurant serving fiery home-style Hunan food. The food is a delightful contrast to the chic and very minimalist decor. Soft fermented tofu with tomato paste and chili is a solid medium-spice dish, and cauliflower fried with scallions and garlic is even more mild, a wonderfully textural accompaniment to pork belly stir-fried with green and red chilies. On most tables you'll see the hot and sour fish head, the spicy broth thickened up with mung bean noodles. Whatever dishes you order, tack on rice for everyone; you'll need it to cut the heat.