The Small Cyclades
Once upon a time, the only way to get to the Greek islands
was on torpid ferries that seemed to stop at every speck in the Aegean. These days hydrofoils, high-speed boats, and airplanes zip between most of them. But the Express Skopelitis
, a dogged little misnomer, still chugs among the Small Cyclades, a cluster of six isles with nothing but miniature ports, cobalt coves, and a handful of seaside tavernas and rooms to let. From Naxos, you can hop off at Iraklia (population: 145), where there are no banks, buses, taxis, or gas stations; Schinoussa, where you can acquire a taste for the local wine; Ano Koufonisi, with a smattering of bars and boutiques; or nudists' favorite Donoussa, where Dionysus hid Ariadne after snatching her from Theseus.