Satevo is a survival town in Batopilas Canyon. The state of Chihuahua has suffered a decade-long drought with drastic rain reduction in the last three years. There is no market, just a tiny tienda selling staples and junk food. It was a relief for us, the only visitors for days, to down a cold soda after three hours of hot hiking. There were many abandoned homes and some well-cared-for small houses, but no sign of a business other than growing food in orchards and small plots. Donkeys, goats, chickens and sheep were more numerous than people. In the school yard a teacher drilled the boys in basketball.
The town's draw, aside from the starkly beautiful landscape, is an old adobe church, where all records were lost long ago, even the Catholic church forgot about it. Well cared for by the locals, it sits like a jewel above the river.