As the sun goes down in Nigeria, the fireflies rise and the lanterns of the beer gardens light up, order some of the country's tastiest snack. At this bar in Abuja, fresh beef suya is doused in spices, cooked on skewers and then served with tomato, red onion slices and a generous pile of extra seasoning. If ever you wanted hairs on your chest, suya is the best way about it. You can try asking a suya chef what's in their spice blend, but you're as likely to get a full answer as you would from a laksa auntie in Singapore. There's cayenne, there's ginger, there's peanut cake. There's the most liberal use of chili you'll find this side of Hunan. Make sure you have a cold Star beer on hand too.