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Organic Hotel Kiri no Sato

Wakayama, Wakayama Prefecture, Japan
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Organic Hotel Kiri no Sato Takahara Wakayama  Japan

Organic Hotel Kiri no Sato Takahara

In a soaring, cedar-beamed dining room, Jian Shino, the hotel’s Wonka-like owner, conjured a parade of small, exquisite dishes: shimeji mushrooms with scallions and octopus; sautéed eggplant; delicate fiddlehead ferns; the freshest sashimi; a cube of decadent deep-fried peanut “tofu”; kobe beef cooked to buttery perfection in an earthenware bowl over a candle flame; the requisite rice and pickles; a sublime berry sorbet. I ate until I was in actual pain, then kept eating anyway.—Peggy Orenstein

This appeared in the March/April 2018 issue.