"Up the road but down to earth," says the billboard on Highway 29, attempting to coax visitors to push through St. Helena's quaint downtown and onward to Calistoga. The northernmost town in Napa Valley, it is the last to be what you might call gentrified. And if there is one place keeping Calistoga well grounded, it's Susie's Bar. While it hasn't been the same since the stripper pole was removed (safety concerns) the dusty but impressive collection of Budweiser paraphernalia, a cold Coors Banquet and a pretty good juke box make it worth braving the sketchy looking entrance. Once you're inside, just try to be cool. If the bartender doesn't know you, she doesn't like you. Period.