San Salvador is a city in flux. Although it's looking to break free from a violent war-torn past, visible reminders remain: brick walls are topped with huge curls of barbed wire; graffiti murals protest colourfully; crumbling buildings cling to their glorious 1940s selves while slums bracket the edges of former upper-crust 'hoods.
But: the city is moving forward. You can both see it and sense it as you wander the streets. Plazas are being made-over; roads are being smoothed out; the local art scene is blossoming. And the best way to experience this upswing is to get out and walk.