Kampot is a charming, sleepy town where not one person tried to sell me something unsolicited. It has a nice, laid-back feel, charming in a slightly dingy way. It looks like an Instagram effect called "mildew" or "charcoal" has been applied, which blackens all the edges. But there's a quiet bustle to Kampot, the sense that things are turning around, even working. There are plenty of foreigners here, but many of them actually live here.