Enthusiastic staff welcome diners to this tachinomi, a casual pub where there are no chairs, and diners eat and drink at high counters, usually overlooking an open kitchen. The specialty at Saisei Sakaba is cuts of meats and organs that are skewered and then grilled, the accompanying smoke wafting out into the pedestrian street and drawing in customers to the retro-designed shop. Start the evening here and then move onto another izakaya in the area. This part of Shinjuku is packed with small spots for drinks and small bites. Insider tip: Be sure to order the gyū tan, simmered beef tongue.