If you’re lucky enough to score a reservation to try young chef Bertrand Grébaut’s cooking, consider it winning the lottery. The smartly modern bistro—which made it onto the 2016 “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” list—is only open five days a week, and is closed on weekends. The menu is seasonal, creative, and a bit offbeat: raw deer with olives, roasted pigeon, hay-flavored ice cream. Pair your meal with natural wines from the extensive list.
