Sapa is the highest region of Vietnam, boasting the tallest mountain in South East Asia, Fansipan, at 10,312 feet it's called 'the roof of Indochina'. I hired a guide and we drove on motorbike up through the mist towards it, mountains spiking all around us and the freezing mists making it an unpleasant ride. I kept thinking 'frangipane', a confectioner's almond filling and trying to reconcile that with the black mountains gesticulating at the sky all around us. I tried to keep my fingers warm so that when I jumped off to take a picture (every three minutes like clockwork) I would have more than a frozen claw with which to maneuver my camera. My guide was charming, a mine of information on the region, with it's 2,024 floral varieties and 327 faunal species. His name was Kim.