In a spare sandstone space in Paddington, Saint Peter puts all the emphasis on the seafood. Whether chef Josh Niland is working with fillets of snapper, Petit Clair de Lune oysters, whole urchin, or tiny herring, he applies the same care and precision, cooking his specimen to perfection every time. Many of his plates are like works of art: rounds of radish are layered atop rillettes of ocean trout like scales, a school of anchovies appears to swim through olive oil. There are also plenty of surprises along the way, from fish offal to sides of crispy scales. A black dot on the plate is both a reference to the marking on a john dory and a suggestion for where to start eating.