Restaurante di Stazione, in Intragna, Ticino, perches beside the Centovalli railway line between Locarno, Switzerland and Domodossola, Italy. Stop in when visiting Intragna, or as a getaway from nearby Locarno.
The rather prosaically named restaurant is an elegant surprise. There, in the shadow of the highest clock tower in Ticino, a seasonal lunch menu offers such treats as Parmesan flan with fresh green asparagus, airy and soufflé-like, topped with creamy foam and a drizzle of Balsamic vinegar. When I visited in spring, the chef did an extravagant turn on berries and chocolate: tiny forest strawberries with plump raspberries, lemon ice and a slice of dark chocolate cake.
Choose from an outdoor table by the tracks or an indoor table with a panoramic view down the valley. A creative kitchen makes the restaurant a great place to sample Ticinese products, deftly prepared and elegantly served.