You know how deviating from plans can have the most amazing results? We were in a rented car in Lisbon, trying to get to the Berardo Museum. We had been driving around in circles since a demonstration against austerity measures was blocking off a main road and our GPS didn't exactly know how to avoid engaged and passionate citizens....
After driving around the same cute streets again and again, we decided to abandon our previous plan and instead explore the neighborhood. (We still made it to the Berardo Museum, which I highly recommend!)
Campo d'Ourique is a "typical" Lisbon neighborhood according to one of the locals we spoke to. A quaint park with a craft fair, families at the playground and men playing cards stood at the heart of the area with shops and restaurants lining the streets.
While we saw plenty of good looking restaurants but kept searching for the perfect lunch spot. We turned the corner and stopped, just like the sign told us to do, at Stop where families eating Sunday lunch lined the small restaurant. With such a crowd, we knew we had found it.
For the 40 years the restaurant has been open, it's been a favorite of the neighborhood. We looked at the tables around us and saw the monkfish with rice was on nearly every table. The soupy dish is incredibly flavorful and comforting.
I can't recommend the neighborhood and restaurant highly enough for feeling the rhythm of Lisbon life.